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Adjusting Laces?

Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Hey everyone,

So, I feel kinda like an idiot, but I honestly have no idea how to adjust laces. In a lot of gear reviews/guides people will say that they prefer lace-up shoes due to the ability to adjust the tightness of specific areas, yet no one has ever explained exactly HOW to do this. One review even suggested that you could adjust the tightness in the toes, which has me skeptically hopeful, as I recently had to admit defeat and stop wearing my too-tight Katana Laces (Even though I loved them) as they were causing chronic pain in my big toe knuckles (this after a 4-5 month break in period). IS it possible to adjust the tightness in a particular area, such as the toe box? If so, how?

DevinLane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 265

Here are a couple ideas - for locking out laces to isolate different spots you basically overlap the laces three times.

I use the high instep variation on my tc pros. Works great!

i.imgur.com/aDnwI9q.jpg

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Hmm, cool. When you say "isolate," are you making it tighter there, or looser? What do you mean by "locking out" the laces?

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

If they're hurting your toe-knuckles, it's probably because they're a bit too short, and adjusting the laces won't help. Are they still too tight when the laces are very loose all the way down?

I had a pair of Anasazi Blancos that I couldn't get to break in/stretch out enough. Eventually a used a razor blade to make small cuts in the heel rand, releasing some of the tension. No doubt buying them a half size larger would've been a better solution, but it worked to make them wearable.

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

The only true answer comes from individual experience. When I went to the podiatrist he said I have an a very unusual foot type, very wide at the toes, narrow heel, high arch. 8.5 EEEE Buying shoes sucks and they always require painful break-in to get comfortable.

I have tried three different climbing shoes. All have their pluses and minuses, but a big part of the decision is the precision you need in climbing.

I am a newb, so take this advice with a grain of salt, the more precise you need the placement the tighter the shoe. I am a 5.5-5.7 climber, my happy shoe has lots of room and I can stand in them all day. Once upon a time I thought I would be a super climber so bought a pair of super tight pointy shoes. Tenaya Anasazi. I think that is right, I don't have them in front of me. I jumped a whole grade in a day, I could jab them on the tiniest nub and they stuck. They hurt like h... Sucked at smearing. But were very precise.

My new shoes are bigger, La Sportiva Tarantulace, to get them to fit right they kind of look like clown shoes in comparison. But, they smear good, they edge well, if I can the ball of my big toe on the nub it holds well, forget about sticking them in a pocket.

So I am weird, I admit it, but that comes back to the original question, lacing. I looked at the fancy running lacing chart, interesting. What I have deduced from many years of bad shoeing is that the more lace loops you have the more you can customize the fit. I start off by mega-sizing all the loops. Then from toe to arch, pull the individual loops until they are snug. If you pull them too tight you will cut off your circulation and that really hurts. Just snug. Laces self equalize to a minor degree. That's the best I have for you.

Good luck with your shoes.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, I'm a .10/.11 climber looking to push solidly into .11 territory. I'm not opposed to a little pain or discomfort, but I'm not looking to cause permanent damage, which is why the persistent pain (and massive blisters) caused me to finally bench the shoes.

On a related note, I ended up getting a pair of Muira laces a size up. They're fairly comfortable (and no more pain), but the fit is weird...I have a little space by the heel (pockets on either side), and the leather curls up a bit by the toes. Maybe one of these techniques would help fix that...?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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