Top rope soloing a project
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so does anyone top rope solo project routes that you will be falling on alot. I am trying to break into 5.12 range and have a good route in mind that I can easily top rope. My current climbing partner is not going to be able to climb for awhile and I mostly have weekdays off to climb, leading me to soloing for lack of weekday partners. I have no problem TR soloing on climbs below my grade, but I was wondering if anyone does this at their limit. I am not going to lead solo, but I couldn't see any harm in falling alot on solo TR with proper redundancies. Any Thoughs? |
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I have been doing it for a while now, as I am also trying to break into the 12s. It hasn't been a problem for me, and just make sure my device is feeding good and is close. I do use two ropes and two devices with knots beneath them. I think the added safety is worth it when you are falling so much. |
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I tr solo stuff I'm not able to lead yet quite often. It helps a lot if your system doesn't include backup knots or having to pull slack through a device. It also helps if your able to easily swap from climbing to descending quickly, preferably without having to break out slings/Prussia/tiblocs etc... Finally, you have to have a lot of faith in your system, and get used to using it in order to feel comfortable just concentrating on the climbing without any nagging worries holding you back. |
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Use 2 devices per the petzl instructions ... |
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Steph Davis has a good instructional video on her blog. |
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Thank you all for the replies. I definetely need to make my system more efficient before I start projecting on it. Jake T, I would love to hear your set up. I may not use your exact set up, but seeing everyone elses set up has helped me improve mine. I currently use two ropes as well, but would love to make my set up better (ie feed easier) before I start my project, but that subject has been beaten to death. As I initially posted, I really was curious to see how many feel comfortable/safe projecting with a TR solo set up. Now to stop typing and go climbing. |
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I use a Petzl Microscender and Climbing Technology RollNLock, which is like a Kong Duck except it also has a pulley mode. I use two strands, with each device on its own strand. Finally, I attach both devices to my harness, extending one with a Dogbone so that it trails slightly lower than the other. |
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I use two mini traxions and have fallen plenty on this setup. It works well on vert to 10 degrees overhanging or so. Steeper than that, it may be impossible to get back on the wall. At the very least it is a pain in the ass. As others have said you'll need an escape plan when this happens. You need to weight the line you are climbing on and will need to keep the upper device tracking well so that you don't generate slack in the system. I'd strongly recommend against draping anything around my neck as Brian Morin is demonstrating in his photo. It should be obvious, but you shouldn't have anything in your system that could potentially strangle you. There are plenty of photos and instructions out there. |
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Canyon, I personally only use a single rope. I never work a TR more than 100' so I have both strands of rope to work with. Do a double figure eight at the middle of your rope to the master point so you have two ears taking the weight. A single ear will result in sheath damage against the biner if you are falling often or weighting your system. |
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Good tip with the double eight Brian, I have used a single eight on a bite in the past, but as stated I have only soloed on easy terrain. I have used a micro trax and a ropeman2 which has worked. I will play around with this a bit. I haven't tried using a shunt as one of my devices yet. Anyone have any XP with a shunt in rope soloing? I have used it many times as an ascender, but haven't seen much as it being used for rope soloing. |
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Canyon, I personally only use a single rope. I never work a TR more than 100' so I have both strands of rope to work with. Do a double figure eight at the middle of your rope to the master point so you have two ears taking the weight. A single ear will result in sheath damage against the biner if you are falling often or weighting your system. |