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Routes in Electric Avenue
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Dogleg T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Electric Avenue T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fido S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Frau Bluka S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Same Place Different Girlfriend S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spot S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Young Frankenstein S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bingham, 88 |
| Page Views: | 1,553 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Spot climbs an immaculate shield of red patina on perfect crimps (read: small and sharp) to a heartbreaking finish with barely any holds. Lots of climbing packed in the short 60' of this excellent route, felt hard for 11a.
Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...
Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...
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