Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Kirk Brode, Smith Curry, Jerry Roberts - 1997
Page Views: 1,295 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kirk Brode on Jun 10, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: Free climb slab to the back of the alcove, then aid the crack in the roof. The crack becomes less and less steep, and ends in a vertical face. Step out of your aiders and face climb to the obvios ledge. (5.8 A3, 100 feet)

P2: Climb the crack until it makes sense to pendulum /tension traverse right into the next crack system over. (C2,100 feet)

P3: Follow the crack/dihedral to bolted belay (C2+, 100 feet)

P4: Free climb 5.8 to the Brode Slot. Chimney the Slot, then offwidth and hands to the belay. (5.9, 100 feet)

P5: Free climb or aid the crack to the belay on a steep slab under the overhang and left of a left facing vertical wall. (5.11- or A2+, 100 feet).

P6 (optional): Free climb past a bolt on the face right of the belay. Wind your way, without much protection, right and up around the buttress to the top of the cliff. Down climb all that crap back to the belay. (5.10+ R and 5.8 X, 100 feet)

Descent: Rappel the route via the bolted belay stations. We had two ropes, and that is probably required sense I think you have to rappel approximately 200 feet from the top of pitch #2 to the ground.

Location Suggest change

Hike about 45 min up the River from the end of the River Walk. The obvious vertical cracks will be staring at you at the end of a long straight section of the River. The River takes a 90-degree turn left turn at the end of the straight section. The route begins in a 25-foot alcove behind a tree.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Zion Free Rack. A few pins up to small angles and Z-pitons in case the very few we left have worked/weathered loose or something.

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