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The House Always Wins
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in North Buttress
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Aces and Eights S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Appetite For Destruction S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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B-52 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bucket List S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cherry Popper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cinco De Side-pull S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead Man's Hand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Death From Above S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gila Monster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Great Northern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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House Always Wins, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pre-op Therapy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Prymal Instinct S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shell Shock S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Short Stop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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So Easy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Suicide Jack S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Barroso, Unema, |
| Page Views: | 1,689 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Toast with Butter on Jan 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: - Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
In 2015, Access Fund acquired key privately owned access parcels when foreclosed on by the bank to keep it in climbing-friendly hands. Please park and camp on Access Fund property and take the new trail down. Please donate today at accessfund.org/homestead to secure permanent access and conservation of the Homestead.
Description
I always looked at this very aesthetic line thinking it would be amazing, When I rapped down I found a handful of old 3/8 inch cobweb filled bolt holes that the Gambler might have put in. Since he wont care, I decided to bolt it up, and am really happy with how it climbs.
This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster.
One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners.
Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.
This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster.
One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners.
Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.
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