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Training the pinch grip

Original Post
aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

I have the old Metolius Simulator hangboard with only slopers, edges, and pockets, so the pinch grip has been totally ignored in my workouts for a while now. Recently I saw the Metolius Contact hangboard (with the variable pinches) on sale so I was super excited to pick one up. After it was mounted up and I took one hang on the pinches, I realized right away that the angle of the hold and the distance between them allows too much compression to come into play. I can basically hang off the narrow section of the pinches with no thumbs at all. And even though I do have to engage my thumbs at the bottom of the pinch hold in order to hang on, I can feel that I’m using a lot of compression to “cheat”. But trying any sort of one-hand pinch to remove the compression factor is probably not a good idea because 1. I’m weak and 2. It will put my wrist in some weird and possibly injury inducing angle. This is quite a disappointment. Does anyone have any good ideas to train for the pinch grip? Those power grip balls you hang from (similar to the Metolius rock rings) seem like a great idea, except that I’m not ready to drop that much money again right after I bought a new hangboard. I found an article by Eva Lopez on training pinch grip, but I want to see if there are any other ideas out there.

en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2…

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

I've heard this has some of the best pinches of any hangboard since they're angled down so you can't use compression (haven't tried it myself)
trango.com/p-232-rock-prodi…

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

What about those wooden balls or just hanging sanded blocks of wood by chord? I am asking because I don't know but my pinch strength is the weakest part of my climbing, would love to get better.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

That Trango RPTC hangboard is BY FAR the best thing I've used to train pinches. The wrist angles, elimination of compression, are excellent.

Just be diligent and don't allow yourself to cheat (most people's fingers are long enough they could wrap the top edge if desired)

Wooden blocks and things like that can work. But the angles/no freedom of movement *(like you'd get hanging wooden block off a cord)/variable sizes of pinch, etc along with the general superiority of the RPTC board among hangboards, make it an easy call. Get the RPTC board and get busy.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

If you are in money saving mode it's really easy to drill a hole in a 2x4 scrap, and hang weights on a cord through the hole. Nail two 2x4s together for a bigger pinch and 3 2x4s for a really wide pinch.

Ryan Canny · · Illinois · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

I have had a lot of strength gains using the SIC Grips G-Strings.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Do something useful like weed a garden, stack a load of wood or lay some bricks ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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