Training the pinch grip
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I have the old Metolius Simulator hangboard with only slopers, edges, and pockets, so the pinch grip has been totally ignored in my workouts for a while now. Recently I saw the Metolius Contact hangboard (with the variable pinches) on sale so I was super excited to pick one up. After it was mounted up and I took one hang on the pinches, I realized right away that the angle of the hold and the distance between them allows too much compression to come into play. I can basically hang off the narrow section of the pinches with no thumbs at all. And even though I do have to engage my thumbs at the bottom of the pinch hold in order to hang on, I can feel that Im using a lot of compression to cheat. But trying any sort of one-hand pinch to remove the compression factor is probably not a good idea because 1. Im weak and 2. It will put my wrist in some weird and possibly injury inducing angle. This is quite a disappointment. Does anyone have any good ideas to train for the pinch grip? Those power grip balls you hang from (similar to the Metolius rock rings) seem like a great idea, except that Im not ready to drop that much money again right after I bought a new hangboard. I found an article by Eva Lopez on training pinch grip, but I want to see if there are any other ideas out there. |
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I've heard this has some of the best pinches of any hangboard since they're angled down so you can't use compression (haven't tried it myself) |
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What about those wooden balls or just hanging sanded blocks of wood by chord? I am asking because I don't know but my pinch strength is the weakest part of my climbing, would love to get better. |
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That Trango RPTC hangboard is BY FAR the best thing I've used to train pinches. The wrist angles, elimination of compression, are excellent. |
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If you are in money saving mode it's really easy to drill a hole in a 2x4 scrap, and hang weights on a cord through the hole. Nail two 2x4s together for a bigger pinch and 3 2x4s for a really wide pinch. |
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I have had a lot of strength gains using the SIC Grips G-Strings. |
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Do something useful like weed a garden, stack a load of wood or lay some bricks ;) |