Millcreek Canyon - New Routes?
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Went for a hike (will not disclose what trail) this evening and came upon what looks like a newly developed wall. Wall is to the climbers right of the trail. Fixed rope, buckets hidden...etc. Went to have a look and there were no red-tags hanging on the first bolts. Who can point me in the direction of with some info. PM me. |
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Based on the subforum you posted this on, are you talking about Mill Creek outside of SLC? |
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Millcreek in SLC, not Moab. Figured I wouldn't get any answers from any locals that are bolting, just thought I would reach out before I head back up to take some burns :). |
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I've always thought that the Millcreek rock looked too chossy to be climbable. I'd be happy if I were wrong though! |
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which trail is it off? there's some new hard stuff that was put up 1-2 yrs ago. Pretty sure everything's been sent at the banana crag (aka the henion). |
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Can a topo be found for the banana crag aka henion? Or any other newish areas in Mill. Thanks. |
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Most everything up there is in the mid to high 12 range with a couple 13's on the money section of the wall. There's one 11d, but it's probably more like 12a. |
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Well said Fett. The routes are NOT fully cleaned at The Henion. It is obviously still in progress. If anyone is anxious to climb there, do so at your own risk and don't climb anything with fixed lines. Some of us don't red tag unless it us absolutely necessary ;). |
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What is the grade of the first route you come up too when approaching from climbers left, or the trail. Looks like fun. Anchors up top? |
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The first route, at this point in time,is 10.d. Its good. The next two routes to the right are mid 11's. The next two routes after that are 13's and are being projected, by the developers right now. The rest of the routes are harder than 12a. |
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Some newer routes in Millcreek Canyon since this thread. Jug Haul Wall has 5.8-5.11 and the open project could likely be sent in the 5.12 range. https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111966520/jug-haul-wall Millcreek Monster is the furry beast low in the canyon that now sports a fun 5.9 multipitch Little Adventure. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113702924/a-little-adventure |
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glad to see there is some new route activity up millcreek in slc. regarding the older posts, this crag is "the henion" or "banana belt". it sits atop the burch hollow trail on the north side of the canyon. you can approach the cliff from the pipeline trail starting at porters fork and go up canyon to the start of burch hollow or go down from elbow fork when the summer road is open.(a bike is a nice option for this option, but you still have to hike burch hollow) it takes an hour or two to get there. the crag is south facing so get an early start. the rock is gently overhanging limestone. all the starts are complete choss, but once on the routes the rock gets good. there are 10 or so routes. first 3 are .11s, the rest are .12s and low .13s. feel free to go climb these routes. my only warning is the quickdraws are old need replacing |