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Non-standard bolts, pretty far back

Original Post
Jon Larsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

Hi ya'll - beginner green as grass. Have a few questions for you experienced folks.

First, some advice on where to climb [with an emphasis on easy learning routes] would be awesome if you're familiar with central Washington. We will be toprope only. There must be some underlying theory to how people pick spots to climb--they must look at the rock and thing "X". What is that thought? As a guy with some ancient history gym climbing I've got not idea how to "read the rock" - help appreciated!

I live in Moses Lake and have already visited the 'Hall of Frustration' crag in the adjacent potholes which shows up in some guidebooks although not here on MP. Found 2 bolts at the top. Yay! It's not like I've got a lot of gear :)

Our family hikes have taken us to the Sun lakes area where there's lots of cliffs but who knows what climbing. Just north is Banks Lake--haven't been up there yet for fishing or a climbing reconnoiter but as it's featured here and in all books I know I should. Was recently on Lake Roosevelt and saw cliffs but no climbers. I've seen climbers around George which has features similar to but smaller than Vantage [Vantage being the prime guidebook place] and went to investigate.

And here's what I found.

nonstandard bolts

Are these dangerous? If they're suspect, how would you tell? Bring a wrench and check the tension?

I saw people on this very route--but only from the bottom. Now - there's a BUNCH of these, which is great for me if I elect to use them. But most placements are at least 6' from the edge. Here's a horrible, tilted, pano of the area so you can see that specific route. Bolts are ~30' from the edge over a few shallow shelves [~5'-7' of vertical travel to edge].

long way back

Is this placement ludicrous - or awesome? It looks like an poor choice--making me question the whole affair [i.e. those nonstandard bolts again] as I just can't find the reason for this anchor distance. I've got 2x48" slings, 25' of webbing and a cordelette. With that configuration of gear, I can't get my master point to the edge unless I'm going with a single point...and that's the biggest no-no there is. Right? But 2 loops of appx 30' is some ~120 linear feet of cord. Um, I guess I'll be skipping this awesome easy route then?

Appreciate your thoughts

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

"What is that thought?"

Well, my thought is, I think I can climb that and the only way to know is to try. This is how projects start. I'm looking for where my feet, hands, and protection would go - nothing more.

It would appear from your picture that the reason why the anchors are far back from the edge is to give solid placement in a large block. Everything from the anchors to the cliff do not look to be something that will last as long or be as set and sound structurally as the current placement. Maybe? The uncovered rock face on the ledge just below the anchors could have been another spot, but it appears that the anchor rope/webbing/cord may have to take an upward angle over the blocks in front and then back down over the cliff edge. This could cause wear on the anchor material or cut it in worst case. There were probably multiple reasons why the anchors are positioned where they are. Hard to really tell without being there.

If you are unsure of using just the anchors you show you can always back it up with something else. With the gear that you have noted you have to work with it would make things difficult. If you were to buy a 20-30m static rope you could set up an anchor here and not have to worry about webbing, cord, and whatnot. One static rope, one dynamic rope, a few carabiners and you are done.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

I'd get long enough static ropes to set up a TR just over the edge of the cliff. The location of the anchors is most likely to get the most out of short routes, and allow for easy top access. As far as them being safe, well, its not ideal, but it is going to be plenty strong enough.
However, looking at your picture, I'd say there are probably better cliffs that would be worth going to. Vantage isn't that far from you, and it has lots of good climbs.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

That bolt set up is fine, it's a cheap way of making an anchor. I use that setup sometimes for a temporary anchor to access where I want to put in a more permanent anchor. Probably non stainless wedge bolts with chain, definitely strong enough to rappel or top rope off of. If they don't wiggle around in the hole and feel tight with no rust present, and the rock is not total choss they are probably good to go.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Highline anchor?

Kiri Namtvedt · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 30

There's no problem with running a single strand of webbing from each bolt to your masterpoint. You don't need a doubled loop to each bolt.

Shovel Point is a climbing area along the north shore of Lake Superior, and all of the potential anchors tend to be quite a ways back from the edge (in one area there are two massive installed bolts about 20' back from the edge) and it's common practice to run single strands of webbing to the edge of the cliff.

Of course you use two (or more) of these strands to your anchor, so it is redundant. No worries.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The links as hangers was long gone..or so i thought.. looks like shit placements to me..gravel etc

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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