Tendon pain in inner forearm

I've been climbing for 9 years and have never experienced this pain before. I'm on a climbing trip entering week 3 and a couple days ago a sharp pain began to develop 3-4 inches below my wrist on my inner forewarn directly on the tendon. It doesn't hurt during climbing but afterwards once I'm more cooled down it gets severe. Oddly it hurts most when my palms Are up and my arm is outstretched. It's definitely a tendonitis but I can't find anything online regarding this specific area. Anyone know any stretches or exercises? Not climbing is not an option currently till I get back. I'm taking a couple rest days to see if it improves but 1 rest day was not enough. Any advice would be so helpful.

Hi there,

It seems you have golfer's elbow / medial epicondylytis.

I had the later variation of it and I did a lot of reading about this. This is what worked for me -

I took 2/3 weeks off and then tried climbing again. The pain did not go away. So I took the following steps and it has helped since then ..

I wore elbow brace only during the first couple of weeks when the pain was severe. It helped me with the pain (less intense after cooling down). However, it is important to note that while it lessens the force on tendons, it also restricts circulation, so you might feel the pump more easily if you have it too tight. I no longer wear it.

I minimized my bouldering, especially on crimpy problems. I used to do V7.. now I don't do anything more than 4 or occasionally 5s. It has definitely helped.

Ice - I ice my elbows where it hurt everyday for at least 15/20 minutes after climbing till it is nice and numb. It helps to reduce the inflammation.

Massage the area where it hurts. Massage gently to help with the blood flow. No need to apply anything.

Stretching exercises - Flexor stretch & Extensor stretch

Do eccentric wrist curls and reverse wrist curls - Only when it doesn't hurt. If it does, don't do any weighted curls.

Do not stop climbing, but try and not climb at your limits when it hurts. Keep climbing but at easier grade. Massage, ice, stretch and do wrist curls.

Check this links -

willgadd.com/climbers-and-e…

elbowrevive.com/blogs/news/…

theinspiredclimber.com/2014…

Hope this helps!

How is t medial epicondylitis if it isn't his elbow?

There is no tendon around that location AFAIK. It may just be an injury to the muscle belly and you need to go light for a few days and ice.

I've had good success with the Bill Starr muscle injury protocol, search for "Bill Starr Rehab for Muscle Pulls" on this page: startingstrength.wikia.com/….

The pain began to disappear once I began climbing at Rifle. The RRG madness cave made the condition get worse. After 5 days at Rifle, the pain is totally gone. Its really weird.

Armaid, dude! It works!

Good luck--if you're Front Range local, check out Stephen Melis at ProActive Chiro, too--he's in gunbarrel. Best deep-tissue guy I've ever been to...Cedar, Timmy, Renan all go to him.

Go!

RC

That's good to know Rami.

Now, as others pointed out, if it isn't tendon, the cause to worry is less. But, as you mentioned, if you are sure it is tendonitis (as you mentioned in your post), then do take it easy even if the pain subsided. Keep a close watch .. good for you that it has stopped now!

Keep crushing.