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Building a climbing truck

Sean Brady · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 125

It sounds like you're already a little far down the road on this project for my suggestion, but I'd like to suggest Unistrut, or other extruded aluminum type product. It's pretty light, very strong, fairly easy to work with and won't rot or rust. There's lots of different sizes to choose from as well. It can be bolted directly to the vehicle in a number of creative ways. A Google search of Unistrut or extruded aluminum rails will give you lots of results. You can get it at Home Depot, or buy used bits of it off craigslist like I did for $1 a foot. Here a site with a good example: tannerbolt.com/JQMobile.asp…

I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Good luck!

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

Sean, I actually liked into that, but couldn't figure out a way to get it to work with my design plans, I'm pretty close to done now, just with for the trick cap to get in, and finishing touches to be made. And this thread isn't solely for my use, it can be read in the future to inspire another climbers plans

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210
Luc Ried wrote:Has anybody felt it necessary to use poly? Or has normal bare wood done the trick?
Use water based poly or dewaxed shellac if you really want to put a top coat on. Don't use regular oil based poly. It will smell for a long time.

Personally, I wouldn't use a top coat, especially if it's all plywood; I'd just sand all exposed surfaces to around 120-150 grit and leave it.
Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

I plan on sanding with at least 150 grit, thank you for answering that question, I had assumed the smell would be unbearable for a while

Jay Samuelson · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,896

I put a coat of minwax polyurathane on the underside of my frame and coated the plywood sheets as well, it had a slight smell but wasn't unbearable by any means. I didn't let it fully cure before I threw it in there either.

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210
Jay Samuelson wrote:I put a coat of minwax polyurathane on the underside of my frame and coated the plywood sheets as well, it had a slight smell but wasn't unbearable by any means. I didn't let it fully cure before I threw it in there either.
You might be used to it by now but the fact is that oil based finishes in general and low quality oil based finishes in particular (like minwax) contain very high levels of V.O.C's and are comprised mostly of chemical driers that will continue to off-gas for weeks.

To clarify my earlier advice:
If you really want to put a top coat on, use a low V.O.C. finish without the long off-gas cycle like water based poly or shellac. Your lungs, brain and the environment will be better off.

And again, if the question is, "does this NEED to be finished?", in my opinion, it does not.
Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440
Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440
Luke R · · Athens, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 704

It's easy to go down the rabbit hole with this stuff, especially if you're a gear junkie. This site has a ton of info on expedition vehicles- essentially the rich version of dirtbag vehicles. Lots of good ideas though that can probably be scaled back some or adapted.

expeditionportal.com/forum/…

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655
Built

07 Tacoma build

Slide over deck for double bed with custom cushion.
Fold up Table
Tons of under deck storage.
12V electrical system (2-10amp batteries wired in parallel)
Blue Sea Fuse box
12V squirrel cage fan
12V LED lighting x4
400watt Inverter
Solar panel/regulator Pulls out when parked
6 GAL water tank under deck
12V water pump
Marine access door panel
Bored out frame, really only cut 3 lbs (not worth the trouble)

All in all the holes seem to have saved between 12-15 pounds and every pound counts.

I cut more holes out, on every piece, and came no where near cutting 15lbs.

Odd. Totally not worth the time, or effort IMHO

EDIT POST
Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440
mucci wrote: 07 Tacoma build Slide over deck for double bed with custom cushion. Fold up Table Tons of under deck storage. 12V electrical system (2-10amp batteries wired in parallel) Blue Sea Fuse box 12V squirrel cage fan 12V LED lighting x4 400watt Inverter Solar panel/regulator Pulls out when parked 6 GAL water tank under deck 12V water pump Marine access door panel Bored out frame, really only cut 3 lbs (not worth the trouble) All in all the holes seem to have saved between 12-15 pounds and every pound counts. I cut more holes out, on every piece, and came no where near cutting 15lbs. Odd. Totally not worth the time, or effort IMHO EDIT POST
First of all, awesome setup, second, I did weigh the wood I cut out afterwards, and it weighed 13.4 pounds. With that said, I dont believe it was worth the time and effort I put into that part of the project
mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Luc, I just realized your frame is about 2 times the size. What type of wood did you use?

If I could do it all again I would use a hard wood/metal combo.

Some really good ideas here.

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

I used 2x12s for the frame with around 100 holes cut out of the final design, and the plywood is slightly less than ½ inch. If I had some more funding and time, I would have went for square tube aluminum frame, which would have weighed next to nothing

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676

Here’s a photo of my dual battery setup for my 2011 Toyota Tacoma. I am using Intelligent Battery System’s Dual Battery System. IBS-DBS. There are two Optima Yellowtop group 34 batteries in the battery tray. Here are a few links.

Intelligent Battery System’s Dual Battery System
2005+ Tacoma Dual Battery Tray from ATO

The dual battery system works like this. A controller is in the cab of the truck and it is monitoring the voltage of the truck battery and the accessory battery. If the controller determines that the alternator is cranking a charging voltage (ie., the engine is running) then it commands the relay to connect the batteries together so that the accessory battery can get a charge as well. When the alternator stops cranking (when the engine is switched off) the controller commands the relay to disconnect the two batteries. Any accessory battery usage while the truck is off will not affect the truck battery. The controller has a bar graph showing both battery’s voltage and has some manual control functions as well.

This system works very well for my needs. The charging of the accessory battery system is pretty fast because the alternator puts off at least 100 amps of current, so driving for 15-20 minutes tops off the batteries. I actually have two more group 34 batteries under the sleeping platform in the camper shell. They are attached to the accessory system as well, so I have a lot of juice. And if my truck battery is run low for some reason, I can jump start myself.

I've been running this setup for about 40,000 miles. The only problem I've had is there is no low voltage disconnect. So if we are in camp for a while, using the accessory battery system a lot, I need to monitor the voltage of the accessory system so that I don't completely drain it. But at least the truck battery would remain fully charged in such a scenario.

Dual battery system for 2011 Tacoma.

Here's a schematic of the dual battery set-up from IBS. Keep in mind that the solar charger is optional - I do not have one. This would be a way to keep charging both the truck and accessory battery systems while the engine is not running. I don't have a refrigerator either!
Dual battery system from IBS

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

I have absolutely no electrical knowledge whatsoever. I dont know if thats relatively easy, however, it looks complex and impressive to me..

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Luc Ried wrote:I have absolutely no electrical knowledge whatsoever. I dont know if thats relatively easy, however, it looks complex and impressive to me..
Isolators have been in use for 50 years. The IBS system automates the coupling and uncoupling of the chassis and auxiliary battery. If you're going to run a large inverter off multiple batteries without a secondary source of power (generator or solar) an isolator is mandatory to avoid killing your chassis battery.
Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440
Greg Petliski wrote: As a climber you obviously enjoy being outside, so look at your truck merely as a bed and a storage unit, not a place to hang out and invite company over. Sounds like you are in tune with this already. I lived out of a van for a while, before I climbed but while I hiked and backpacked, and if the weather was nice, I'd be sleeping on the ground outside anyway.
Yeah, it was actually a typo and I was responding to another comment. I have a 6'6" bed, so I'm solid in that front. I plan on spending many nights out in a hammock or a sleeping pad
And to Ray, I could have went that direction, however I'm using direct solar power to a solar generator, I dont have too much to run really, but thatnk you for the explanation
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Luc Ried wrote: Yeah, it was actually a typo and I was responding to another comment. I have a 6'6" bed, so I'm solid in that front. I plan on spending many nights out in a hammock or a sleeping pad And to Ray, I could have went that direction, however I'm using direct solar power to a solar generator, I dont have too much to run really, but thatnk you for the explanation
The beauty of the isolated auxiliary battery is that you don't really need the solar panel. Since you're running the truck's engine anyway you use the alternator to charge the batteries. In this set up, solar panels are less efficient.
Greg Randolph · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Full disclaimer here, this is posted by a person who works at the company, Decked, that manufactures this product. But I came across your thread looking at the DIY world of truck bed organization and drawers and wanted to make the Mountain Project community here aware of this product.
DECKED is a engineered, American made and constructed from nearly 100% recycled content product. It solves the problem we have all been facing looking to get the most out of our trucks.
This system weighs is weatherproof/dry, weighs about 200 lbs, has a 2,000lb pay load on the deck and 200lbs per drawer, it easily is installed and removed with no need to alter or drill holes in your truck bed.
Retail is $1050-$1150 depending on your truck. It will last the life of your vehicle and solves your storage/organization/bunk needs a little more elegantly than the plywood option.

If interested check it out at decked.com and sorry for putting a sales/marketing pitch into the forums but it's the perfect solution for climbers.
Thanks!
Greg at decked dot com

DECKED SYSTEM

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Wood is now inelegant?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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