Mountain Project Logo

Solo TR: Grigri and Basic Ascender

Original Post
Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

This is not yet another thread on which devices are best for Solo TR. Instead, it is to ask some specific questions and hope for experience-based answers.

My current system is a Petzl Ascension as the primary and the Microcender as the backup. Unfortunately, I left my Microcender at the crag the other day, and it was gone the next day.

So I tried an autoblock as my backup yesterday. It sucked. Maybe I wrapped it too many times, but it would not slide up the rope even when the rope was weighted. I was constantly having to stop and manually feed the rope through.

Questions until I replace my Microcender:

1. I have read here that some use a Prusik as the backup. Does that let the rope feed any better than the autoblock did?

2. I might use my Grigri 2 as a backup in the meantime, but I know what a hassle it is due to the feed issues. Has anyone managed to weight a rope enough that the rope will feed smoothly on its own?

3. Is the basic ascender still suitable for self-belay? I seem to remember reading a year or two ago that the design had changed and it was no longer suitable, so I'm wondering if anyone has used a basic purchased in the last eyar or two and had good results.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

TR soloing with a Gri Gri and a prusik will suck. You'll be continually stopping to pull slack through both.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Buy another microscender, they are awesome and allow for slippage.

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

I would take this as an opportunity to buy a mini traxion.

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3
FrankPS wrote:TR soloing with a Gri Gri and a prusik will suck. You'll be continually stopping to pull slack through both.
Not what I outlined, but thanks.

Bill M wrote:I would take this as an opportunity to buy a mini traxion.
They make me nervous because of the possibility of accidentally opening them up.

I will probably just buy another Microcender.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

a prussik where you arent constantly tending it might not catch in a fall ...

if you use old beaten up thicker ropes like many do for TR soloing .... then the grigir tends to be a biatch to self feed ... nor is it recommended at all as things can get caught on the handle, and its not a "hands free" device regardless

any device will have failures and accidents eventually ... even the microcender

just go out and buy a second device ...

is your life or health worth the 60 dollahs or so a new microcender costs?

;)

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

I always have the Grigri as my back up device, but i use the Grigri 1 not the 2. I put a set of nuts and a few extra figure 8 devices to weight it and it will feed through alright, but sometimes i still have to give it a bit of a nudge. And you can feel the weight hanging, so not ideal but i like that the Grigri is actually designed to hold more then 2 KN of force because that is after all less then most para-cord, and who would solo climb on para-cord.

On a note of the Grigri failing to lock, i did once have it fail to lock when my primary twisted(don't love my primary and would get the microtraxion in the future) and didn't grab right and it slid down and hit the grigri. What saved my bacon was that I always tie knots in both lines beneath my devices, and strongly recommend it to anybody else doing TR solo.

I would not however use a autoblock, my experiences using them for ascending leaves me doubting the ability to safely function as a back up.

Sean Burke · · Concord, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

microtraxion + knots.

taipan jam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30

The mini traxion is great if you dremel the catch (2-3mm or so) that holds it open when you are fussing w/ it off rope...Then it is "always engaging"...

You'll rarely be in a situation where the rope weight pulls through handy on a gri-gri ime

Matthew Williams 1 · · Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 85

Hi RMS,

I use the basic version of the ascender (Petzl Ascension) for top rope solo and have had no problems at all - I love it. A bit bulky, but light and feeds nicely with only a small amount of weight on the lines for short climbs. I use it as recommended by Petzl and trail a Microcender on a short dogbone on the second strand, so it sounds like I do it just like you do. Sorry you lost your Microcender - I love that little thing despite being a bit heavy. At any rate, the GriGri wasn't great for me in my experience - it will catch a fall but you'll have to pull slack whenever you gain significant ground if you were to take a fall on it (assuming your ascender failed.) Still easier than the alternative of either a prussik/autoblock or tying periodic backup 8's and clipping them back to your belay loop, which becomes a mess.

Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Just tie knots below your main device. I use a soloist ( yea I know people don't like it ). I just tie over hand knots on a bight ( I can do this one handed left or right ) and I just put a carabiner in the loop and pull the bottom line till its tight. If my device where to fail my fall will only be till my last point. I never understood using two device unless you are using two separate ropes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Solo TR: Grigri and Basic Ascender"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.