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5.10 Anasazi Guide Review

Original Post
Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 327

Has anyone worn these recently and what do you think?
fiveten.com/products/footwe…

Thanks,

Matt

Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 327

Looking to use these on the Diamond this summer... Thoughts?

MK

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

Softer/potentially stickier rubber than TC pro but I would guess the TC pro edges better with its stiffer rubber. Overall the guide is still a relatively stiff shoe according to my girlfriend. Must be due to its construction or rubber thickness. The toe is thicker than the TC pro so I would imagine it does not do as well in thin cracks. Overall my gf is happy with the guide but I'm also happy that I chose the TC pro over them. Also it looks like the guide has less foot protection. I will say the TC pro's black fabric can get hot in the summer sun.

Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 327

I always hear a lot of great remarks on the TC pro, but they just don't fit my foot right. The Anasazi style has fit my foot great for years.

Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

guides are one of the stiffest overall shoes in the 5.10 line. stiff half sole midsole, C4 rubber.
lined leather with laces all the way to the toes...minimal stretch, maximum adjustability in fit.
toe box, slightly less asymetric than anasazi. low heel tension.

this shoes shines for long days on all types of terrain. a super versatile shoe, comfy, supportive, with strong edging ability and nice in hand and wider sized cracks due to the stiffness.

i would think they would be great for the diamond if they fit your foot well.

Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 327

Thanks I'll keep that in mind...

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

What last does the 5.10 Newton use? I like the toe box shape on them.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I have a pair of these I bought a year ago. I downsized to a 10.5 (wear an 11 or 11.5 in street shoes) because my heel moved around in larger sizes. Proved to be a big mistake, as the shoes were torture for my toes. Unfortunately, I have Morton's toe (2nd toe only slightly longer than big toe) and a very wide forefoot and the Guides never fit my foot very well. I was always happy with the way they climbed (though I find them a little stiff) and love the Stealth C4 rubber.
After my last climb, my toes couldn't take these anymore and I retired them, buying a pair of 5.10 Stoneland VCS shoes instead. Huge improvement in comfort & still really good performance.
Anasazi Guides are great shoes if they fit your feet. They are supposed to be sized for comfort.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I've been wearing a pair of these on and off for a couple months. Alternating between these and the Moccasyms depending on whether I think I'll be smearing or edging more.

The toe box is different, and I find preferable to the Moccs and VCS (that I rarely wear). Very stiff sole and they are capable of a snug fit whilst not being super tight in the wrong areas (I'd expect this is possible to achieve with most lace up designs). Much better for edging than my other shoes, but I think that's partially because I'm over 200lbs which is bound to make a sole flex a bit more. The only issue I found is that they feel a little shorter than my Moccs and VCS in the same size. I'd probably go a half size up next time.

Arin F · · Las Vegas · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 64

I tried a pair of these on last week and had to go up a half size from my normal street shoe size for all day trad/multi-pitch

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
Arin wrote:I tried a pair of these on last week and had to go up a full size from my normal street shoe size
Yeah, I would have upsized so that my toes wouldn't be knuckled but the heel didn't fit tight when I tried on larger sizes.
I retired these and got 5.10 Stoneland VCS shoes. I got these in a size 12, which is 1 size above my usual street shoe size, and they fit great.
First time I have ever upsized when buying shoes but it works....
Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 327

Hey thanks Jim and Arin...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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