Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.

All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Southwest Cascades > Mt Rainier > Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)

Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.

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High camp, just below Camp Hazard (July 3, 2017)

Good view of the route... Wilson Glacier and The Turtle, along with upper mountain

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4.8 from 11 votes

Kris Gorny

Feb 13, 2007

“Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.”

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Nearby Photos

Morning view from the ramp towards Mt. Adams. June 2005.

Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Pat coming up to Camp Hazard. June, 2005.

Nearing Point Success, high on the Kautz Glacier.

Crossing a endless bottom Crevasse in the snowfield near the top

Looking down the Kautz Glacier Route from Halfway up the steep ice pitch section.

A Lenticular cloud seen after topping out the Kautz Ice Chutes

High camp, just below Camp Hazard (July 3, 2017)

Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.

Good view of the route... Wilson Glacier and The Turtle, along with upper mountain

Wouldn't be Rainier without a snow bridge

Traverse under seracs following rock step, lower Kautz ice chute seen in distance - July 2019 (photo: Erick T.)

Lower Nisqually Glacier (traverse to Wilson Gully) - July 2019

Top of the ice step pitches on Kautz

Camp before summit night.

Looking down from camp hazard towards Mt. Adams. July 2007

Early morning on the Kautz before it gets steep

This was our camp, below camp hazard.

Looking down the Turtle with Kautz Ridge below and Mt. Adams on the horizon. June '05.

camping spot above the Turtle

Camp at the Castle on the Kautz

Approach below Nisqually

Jake, walking onto the Kautz glacier at sunrise

on the turtle snowfield

An Alpine Ascents International climbing team approaching the upper ice chute of the Kautz Glacier.

Mark and Tyler climbing Kautz June 2018

looking down pitch 2

Camp Hazard with Kautz ice cliffs in the background.

Sitting east of the Wapowety Cleaver hiding from the wind, having just left the top of the Kautz Glacier.

On the second step in the Ice Chute in summer conditions.

Sunrise just above the ice steps

1 pitch of actual ice climbing on the route during our climb. July '17, about 1am.

Late-season (September 1st) ascent of the Kautz, taken from the top of P1. Climbers in the bottom right. Adams, Hood, and Saint Helens visibile.

Final push to summit

Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top

Descending the DC (July 6, 2017)

Blake, Shawn and John climbing the upper ice chute on the Kautz Glacier.

Eric and I on the second step

Resting between the two Ice Steps - July 2019

Many crevasses near the top

Trekking up toward the upper castle after passing the nisqually galcier

Joey getting ready to climb (6/30/2021).

Looking back from the Turtle snowfield

first pitch

Dallas Glass belaying from above in the Ice Chute

Upper Nisqually Glacier

Kautz Ice Chute with camp below the Rock Step - July 2019

Upper Nisqually from the Wapowety Cleaver

Dallas Glass, leading one of the pitches on the 2nd step in the Ice Chute

Climber on the upper ice pitch of the Kautz ice Chute - July 2019

Scott just about to rope up for the nisqually Glacier

The june 2009 colorado team. Thanks again Ryan and Bryan the two rangers we got to climb with. Fun times

A Crevasse on the Nisqually Glacier before the fan

Another Crevass on upper Kautz glacier past the ice chutes

Approaching the Wilson Gully from the lower Nisqually Glacier - July 2019

Descending the Ice Chute after a long day

Getting out of the Ice chute onto the Upper Kautz Glacier

Crux pitch in June, pretty filled in and relatively shallow angle

Looking down the Ice Chute, camp is on the left right below the Rock Step

Porter McMichael getting it in the second step of the Ice Chute

On belay in the Ice Chute!

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