Mountain Project Logo

Wide cracks Tahoe/Tuolumne/N. Cal

Original Post
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Ok, I now own a pair of #4's, a #5 C4 and #5 Friend, and a #6 C4 and #6 Friend. It's getting a bit warm in the Valley to use them on the routes I had in mind. So help me make a list of wide cracks elsewhere where I will be able to use them. Preferably within striking distance of Sacramento, or even Tuolumne. Preferably someplace climbable in the summer months and 5.8-5.10b or so.

jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

Galen's crack, Tuolumne
10c OW

Kevin Dale · · Denver · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 105

There are some super high quality north-facing Valley routes with wide in your range that should be doable in the summer, including Steck-Salathe (.9-.10b wide) and Mental Block (.10c wide). A couple Sierra classics with excellent wide pitches also come to mind - the Harding routes on both Mt Conness (.10a wide, close to Tuolumne) and Keeler Needle (.10c wide, not N Cal but excellent nonetheless).

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995

Try These on Donner to warm up to the wide:
mountainproject.com/v/rick-…
mountainproject.com/v/fist-…

Robert Mooring · · Lafayette · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 300

polish route on the hulk

easy wind in tuolumne

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,030

Pratt's Crack in Pine Creek
Hair Shirt on Snowshed Wall at Donner
P2 of Traveler Buttress at the Leap
The Yawn, Tuolumne

I forgot the name of the climb but there's a wide crack just to the right of Buster Brown at Eagle Lake in Tahoe. Buster Brown is a nice fist crack. There's 2 other chimneys at this crag as well, 1 of which is a bolted sport route.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Tuolumne - best spot is Olmsted Canyon:

Ivory Tower left 5.8 (quality even though short)
Enemy Within 5.10b
throw a top-rope on The Thrill is Gone (7-9" 5.10d undercling to 5.9 offwidth, so your gear is too small for the undercling)
Grease Monkey 5.8 has a nice fist crack, also has a short slab topout.

Murphy Creek has a fun 5.9, Gortlough RA, that has a bit of offwidth although you may be able to stem around.

Galen's Crack is typically a top-rope, it can be a lot harder than 10c if your fist is not big enough, and it's a burly lead.

Sonora Pass probably has some good options, ask on Supertopo (or register and ask on the forum on sonorapassclimbing.com)

Down in Pine Creek, Pratt's Crack requires larger gear than you have. A great route to do down there is Regular Route on Elderberry Buttress, lots of wide cracks, although many can also be protected with hand size stuff in the back or thin gear here and there. Just make sure to bust right after you finish with the bombay squeeze chimney roof to offwidth (easier than it sounds), that perfect hand crack leading straight up goes nowhere. Also don't underestimate the approach, it's loose, wandering, low 5th class type of "4th class". May be getting hot already.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I did get to use a #5 on Diemos in Tuolumne this weekend, although it was pretty tame by offwidth standards. I want to check out The Yawn. Can anybody tell me about the gear one that?

Ben Kraft · · Mammoth · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 99

You could protect the Yawn with a pile of 3's and 4's, but the 6 lets you keep a piece above your head and the 5 was easy to place. The climb still felt really awkward and hard to me, both Pratt's and the 10b at Olmsted are much easier/less stressful.

j w · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8

Pratt's is too easy if you seek OW burliness. The Yawn has one pitch of wide and strange chimney stuff, do you need a partner for it? Or for any other wideness?

Younghee Lowrie · · meyers califonia · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

The yawn in tuolumne.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
csproul wrote:I did get to use a #5 on Diemos in Tuolumne this weekend, although it was pretty tame by offwidth standards. I want to check out The Yawn. Can anybody tell me about the gear one that?
Yawn

Double from C4#.3-4. I placed no wires, but did find good use for three smaller off-set cams. That gear call still (I only had a single 3 and 4) allows for quite a bit of run out for pitch 4. So if you are not comfortable running out Yosemite 5.9 crack, I advise tripling up on ones and twos. Helmets are advised, this route is not near as clean or well-traveled as what you are use to at Yosemite. This wall is northwest facing. You will probably not see much sun on the first three pitches until late afternoon. You definitely want to rack your approach shoes for the walk off. Take a ton of slings if you want to try and combine pitches which I did with a 70m.
Younghee Lowrie · · meyers califonia · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

i climbed it just this last week. didnt have a topo which sucked, cause i ended up leaving some nuts and rapping. I had 2 number 4 and 3 number 3. I am short and small so the 2 pitch was probably easier. I thought pitch 3 was much harder than I was hoping. Its big and i never got a hand jam. lots of 3 and i moved a 4 up which was kind of ruined the pitch for me. last pitch no need to place gear. good luck, I lead all pitches and found it physical and bad ass.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "Wide cracks Tahoe/Tuolumne/N. Cal"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.