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Top Ten DL Trad routes 5.10a-11a that are PG-R rated?

Original Post
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,947

can you add to my list?

Flake Route
Wild West Homo
Happy Hunting Ground
Sometime Direct
Dancing Madly Backwards
Mouses Misery
Big Deal

Mike Robinson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 251
jon jugenheimer wrote:can you add to my list? Flake Route Wild West Homo Happy Hunting Ground Sometime Direct Dancing Madly Backwards Mouses Misery Big Deal
John,
I don't really follow your post. Are you looking for PG to R rated 5.10a-11a routes? So nothing G rated? I don't know why I care, as I haven't lead anything at that grade at the lake...

MR
SteveZ · · Excelsior, MN · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 431

Maybe The End? Might be a bit more than R though... I wouldn't know as I haven't lead it (too scared). Whatever the case, great route.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Tardis
Whipping Boy
Green Slime
Homo Erectus
Grand Illusion Direct Start
Moonbeam
Sickle
American Dream Roof
Munge
Mongo Fury
Cop Out
Catenary
The Monster
The Pooper
Alpha Centari
Vivesection
Hangdog
Baker Street (ha!)
Tarantula
Morning After
The Blackboard
Wounded Knee
......and Harder
Watermarks Direct
RC
Outside RC
Pinebox
Kama-Kazi
Cheatah
Eve of Destruction
TM Overhang
Plethora
No real order on these but I think they are all good climbs

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,947

Correct Mike.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Beginner's Demise got on-sight led by the SLC climber and caught on still film professionally...... quite impressive and bold....

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

Has Been at Old Sandstone is pretty fun, and a logical step up in boldness and difficulty (but not by a huge amount) from Dancing.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,220

Good call on MorSM Dylan....

it's a great hard 5.10ish route with challenging gear...

Remo · · Madison, WI · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 13,727

Burt listed most of the good ones. What about SOGC? Looks like most people give it a PG-13, and it's the best lead in the park!

chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036
Remo wrote:Burt listed most of the good ones. What about SOGC? Looks like most people give it a PG-13, and it's the best lead in the park!
He said 11a you sandbagger.

Along those lines, if we are feeling a bit sandy, Stool Pigeon would be on the list.

Post crux jug-- aaaahhhhhhhh. Fantastic route. October '12, photo Darin Limvere.
Remo · · Madison, WI · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 13,727

Come on Chris, SOGC is easy;) I was going to mention Stool Pigeon too, but I know Jon has already led it.

Wes W · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 380

Here are the top 10 best leads at the Lake in my opinion

1) American dream Roof – safest and easiest DL lead
2) Sometime crack – pumpy but takes good gear and has good holds
3) Congrats – probably harder than 10a but a classic
4) Tarantula or
5) Gargantua – sort of a give me for the grade, one hard move and 5.8 to the top (except for the last move)
6) Cheetah
7) RC Crack – solid pro if its not wet
8) Cop-out – probably easier than catenary crack
9) The pooper – 5.9 in the guide book but more like 10a
10) TM overhang – like a baby ADR, again 5.9 in the guide book but it climbs more like 5.10

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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