mountaineering boot blister prevention.

I've had a pair of Scarpa Rebel Pros for about half a season, and they have climbed snow and ice great all winter. I took them out on a long approach to a couloir route, and got huge blisters on the heel of both feet. Waking on a gradual uphill grade seemed to be hard with a full shank boot. I was a little surprised as I would have expected this issue to have revealed itself already, although I've never really had to walk gradually uphill, mainly it's been flat roads to areas where I crampon up and then start climbing, or kicking steps. Should I start with moleskin ahead of time?

I had the same issues with my Nepals and did two things which seemed to help. 1) play with various ways of lacing to keep heel from lifting 2) get different insoles to set the heel at the right height/prevent lifting.

When I had the same issue with tight rock shoes, I put vaseline on my heels and another spot that was rubbing too much. It worked fine.

Be sure to stop and fix the problem as soon as the hot spot starts. Use blister relief band aids or moleskin and tape to keep the pressure off spot in question. I've heard vasoline works too.

A couple more ideas. These have worked for me.

- Bridgedale Coolmax liner socks, backcountry.com/bridgedale-…. Expensive but they don't slide around and bunch up like some of the cheaper liners.

- Engo patches, goengo.com. They're teflon-coated patches that stick to the inside of your boot, not your foot. The idea is to allow your sock to slide against the boot instead of rubbing against your skin.

Buy some "Lueko Tape P" (not K). punch it into google, buy it lots of places.

Cover the place that you will get your blisters with a single layer of nicely placed (not wrinkled, no loose edges) LuekoTape. Use more than one piece to cover a larger area.

No blisters!

This tape will stay put in sweaty boots for days. If you're worried about it, apply tincture of benzoin before you tape up to be super sure itll stay on for a very very long time.

Best option. Promise.

^^ Word! Prevention is the cure!

I started carrying my boots in my pack and wearing my approach shoes until it was time to put the pons on. Life got great after that.

At first it seemed counter productive until I tried it and it has made all the difference.

Nick Turtura wrote:I started carrying my boots in my pack and wearing my approach shoes until it was time to put the pons on. Life got great after that. At first it seemed counter productive until I tried it and it has made all the difference.

For better or worse, that is the only solution i've found. As in most place to climb ice (except the Ouray ice park) approaches can be brutal and LONG - the deserts of S. Utah, you'll be working for hours. Lines in RMNP - hours. light weight GTX running shoes with gaiters can get a lot of work done, keep the hand warms tucked in the toe box of the ice boot while its in your backpack and you're walking, then slip 'em on when at the climb. Sometimes you'll have to endure a long walk home as your "wet approach" shoes have now frozen at the end of the day, but at least its the end of the day.

I appreciate the replies. It looks like there is a lot to consider. Thanks.

+1 for Engo patches. I've been using them for a few years now & they work great. I use them in my hiking boots, trail runners and in my Phantom's. They don't last too long in trail runners & hiking boots due to the amount of moisture they're exposed to. They last a long time in my ice boots though.

Jon Nelson wrote: I put vaseline on my heels and another spot that was rubbing too much. It worked fine.

+1 for Vaseline or antibiotic ointment.

Bill Kirby wrote: Be sure to stop and fix the problem as soon as the hot spot starts. Use blister relief band aids or moleskin and tape to keep the pressure off spot in question.

Everyone has fantastic ideas, but besides getting a better fitting boot the above is number one for me. DON'T WAIT! As soon as you feel it heating up (if you can), stop and put some tape or a band-aid on. You have a short window to keep it from getting worse.

Nothing worse that being several miles from home or in the middle of a pitch to find out you crossed the line.

So I am going to try the liners and the Leukotape P first and then move on to Engo patches if need then custom insoles. It's hard to imagine the engo patches + leukotape combined wont work. Thanks for the replies again. I'm always impressed by the recommendations MP gives with respect to gear. I've actually never heard of most of these things before.

Scott McMahon wrote: but besides getting a better fitting boot

I feel the boot climbs excellently and the fit feels great, toe box is good no heal lift etc. I have never had a blister while climbing in it. I expected that if it was going to blister on the trail it would have blistered while climbing. I guess this is not the case. I'll start wearing it hiking and see how it goes.

Sounds like a blend of all the techniques could help. Don't forget it takes a bit each season to get "used" to your boots. Usually one or two trips before my feet are ready to handle big days again. Maybe different socks or bring extras. It might help just to start out with some duct tape from jump. And working with the lacing system like polloloco said. Sometimes I might even use approach shoes if it's the off season. Especially spring snowboarding I'll carry my boots and walk in stiffer approach shoes.

Everyone is pretty on point.

Where do you find this tincture of benzoin? I tried to find it in wallgreens, to no avail.

Try a non change pharmacy. I've also seen it in outdoor store first aid sections.

Truck13

All of the advice here is right on.

I use some cheap liners I get from steepandcheap.com which helps tremendously. They are synthetic and my outer hiking socks are merino or synthetic. Helps to breathe and keep feet dry.

In my backpack first aid kit I always have some mole skin which is cheap and works great. The minute I feel a warm spot I take a break and apply it (cut like donut to leave open the hot spot). I also have a pencil wrapped with about two feet of duct tape which can be a quick backup. Not only great for helping with blisters but also to use as emergency bandage.

Interestingly enough, I've followed others advice and the way which you lace your boots is more important than you think. Really very cool. Like tightening up the two front laces helps prevent turf toe when doing en extended descent. Little things like that are huge.

Anyway..hope you find a system that works for you.

I got the tincture of benzoin from the internet, forget where, same store as the leukotape p.

Tincture of Benzoin along with Luekotape P and Bridgedale liners equals no blisters. Thanks for the recommendations everyone.