All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Tanners Gulch > Minions of Chaos Area

Minions of Chaos

Name: Minions of Chaos
Rating: 3.3

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Minions of Chaos Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Casa Bonita T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Towelie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 05'& 06'
Page Views:	8,640 total · 46/month
Shared By:	Tyler Phillips on Oct 10, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

P1. Start on the far left of the sun deck boulder, climb up to roof clipping a bolt, then straight up the slab passing more bolts. Go passed chain anchor to belay at 2 bolts w/ no chain below beautiful featured face. 5.7

P2. Start crimping up one hell of a fine face to 2 bolt anchor/rap. 5.10+

P3. From the anchor climb up and right around the bush, angle left passing cool features and a pin into the lighting bolt crack, pull small roof and scramble up dirt passing a few more technical moves until a sweet ledge (General Disarray belay ledge) and fixed pin is found down and climbers right from the Butters pitch under the tree. 5.8

P4. From nice ledge climb up into obvious hand/finger crack. Dont forget to look around for all the sweet features for hands and feet. Hang on through 2 very steep pods, crank one last move and clip the anchors. ?Butters Pitch? 5.10 **** Bring lots of thin hand sizes

Location

Find the large boulder at the head of the gulch w/ a nice slab in back of it and a flat top to belay. About 100 yards up from Witches and Divas. (see ?topo?)

Descent: Rap from the Butters pitch back down towards big pine on Captain Caveman, from big pine rap back to the top of the 2nd pitch of the Minions Of Chaos. From 2nd pitch of Minions rap back to the top of the slab routes. We used a 70m rope.