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Routes in Valley Massif
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Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bittersweet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire Escape T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Wrench T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Maps of Hell T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tail Spin T V9 7C |
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Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Legend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,864 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Donny on Jun 24, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Hammer ascends the very prominent off-width on the right side (when looking at the south face of Valley Massif). It is several routes right of Screw. The crack terminates just to the right of the right-most (and biggest) block resting on the summit.
From the trail, scramble up some blocks to the right of Zipper.
The first pitch is a nice warm-up for whats to come: climb a wide crack for 60 feet or so to a two bolt anchor. From the anchor, there are two cracks: Hammer climbs the off-width on the left. I thought that this pitch was very sustained and strenuous. The #5 gave me peace-of-mind while I heel-to-toed and chickenwinged up this on. Past the second chockstone, the crack becomes a chimney. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the right side. I accidentally climbed way past these and had to downclimb the slab, which was not bad.
From the trail, scramble up some blocks to the right of Zipper.
The first pitch is a nice warm-up for whats to come: climb a wide crack for 60 feet or so to a two bolt anchor. From the anchor, there are two cracks: Hammer climbs the off-width on the left. I thought that this pitch was very sustained and strenuous. The #5 gave me peace-of-mind while I heel-to-toed and chickenwinged up this on. Past the second chockstone, the crack becomes a chimney. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the right side. I accidentally climbed way past these and had to downclimb the slab, which was not bad.
Protection
Bring a #2 Camalot on up. The #4 and 5 are very useful.
Per Daniel Heins: the bolt anchors on top do not have chains, they are just hangers. There are anchors at the top of the crack and on the slab below, only the slab below will get you to the first anchors on a 60m rope.
The intermediate anchor between P1 and P2 has hammer link rappel, and the left bolt is loose as it can be wiggled side to side with a finger. There are a pair of good looking bolts and hangers on this ledge far from the belay but without chains or anything else to rap off of.
Per Daniel Heins: the bolt anchors on top do not have chains, they are just hangers. There are anchors at the top of the crack and on the slab below, only the slab below will get you to the first anchors on a 60m rope.
The intermediate anchor between P1 and P2 has hammer link rappel, and the left bolt is loose as it can be wiggled side to side with a finger. There are a pair of good looking bolts and hangers on this ledge far from the belay but without chains or anything else to rap off of.
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