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East Side Rock Climbing
Routes in East Side
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420 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beowulf S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Brady's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chattanooga Choo Choo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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F*ck Cancer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Flat Track S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Girl's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Great Gazoo, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gunslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Hooker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Holy Grail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Jimmy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Interfearon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Jack Frost S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lemon Crack Climb T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lemon Drop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lemon Song, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mexican Burrito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pebbles S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pyromania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasta Man!! S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sand Dollar, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Simonizer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Skyfall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Soul Kitchen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Split Decision S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sylas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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We The People S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Woods' Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Elevation: | 8,565 ft |
| GPS: |
37.46507, -107.67783 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 45,373 total · 238/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The East Side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport climbs. Most of the routes have a higher level of difficulty than on the West Side The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.
Getting There
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir at the Florida Campground, continue straight/right on FR597 for about a 1/2 mile. Park at a large, open rock quarry on the left. Pick up a climber's trail at the north end of the quarry that leads through the trees, and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.
Per j wharton: some notes for the out of town visitor: the Mountain Project directions seemed unclear. When you see a left turn signed for Florida Campground, go straight (right) up the slightly rough hill ahead for approximately half a mile, and park in a large "gravel pit" area. A small but nice trail leads out of the north end of this lot and reaches the east side of the canyon in approximately 20 minutes at a casual pace. A tyrolean underneath Brady's Route leads to the west side crags in high water.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Side
Sun Angles Details:
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Guidebooks (10)
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