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Elevation: 8,711 ft
GPS: 35.30691, -111.70533
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 195,390 total · 1,814/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Closure DetailsDrop down

Overview Suggest change

Continued easy access requires responsible parking. Please don’t park parallel to the road side. The Forest Service needs to keep this road clear in case of fire or other emergencies that may arise in the backcountry that may require the movement of heavy equipment along this road. FR 522 is one of very few access roads to this part of the mountain. If the trailhead parking is full, continue on FR 522 for one hundred yards to another small parking area on the south side of the road. Camping and campfires are NOT allowed. Please DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD IN ANY FASHION. 

The Peaks Crag is a 90' tall row of weathered volcanic dacite tucked up in a shallow canyon amongst the giant aspens and fat ponderosas on the southern flanks of The San Francisco Peaks. This gorgeous area is one of the most beautiful cragging venues in Flagstaff. The main wall is broken into two sections to correspond with the annual Peregrine Falcon nesting closure boundary; The North End and the South End. The Southern Walls are the somewhat intermittent walls which trail away from the main wall down canyon, and tend to be a little shorter, yet secluded.

The Peaks Crag has engaging traditional gear routes interspersed with thoughtful sport lines. There are very few routes here under 5.9. However, you'll find very entertaining routes up to 5.14- and at least several good lines in each grade from 5.10 up. Though there aren't of ton of great lines, there are classics to be had. Locals love it, while most visitors I run into find it sharp and just above average. However, it’s hard to deny the pleasure of the uniquely positive routes.

This wall faces southeast and gets great morning sun before going into full shade in the early afternoon. This arrangement makes for perfect temp chasing on projects throughout the season. Whether you are escaping the summer heat or reveling in the mix of crisp temps and dazzling fall colors, this aesthetic wall is sure to please. It has become over the decades a cherished local crag to the Flagstaff climbing community and a very special way for us to interact with Peaks!

This area remains one of only four small route climbing areas on the San Francisco Peaks. Sad but true, and it's this fact, coupled with the crags seasonally easy access off the heals of Snow Bowl Rd and Forest Rd 522 that have lead to it becoming more popular in the last decade. Increased ascents have lead to cleaner routes and a better overall climbing experience. Essentially a three season crag, as winter brings the closure of FR 522 and appropriate parking is all but cut off. This road generally closes with the first heavy snow of the season and typically opens mid April.

If you are new to the crag, please do not run off with the anchor biners. Many of the anchors there are specifically set up for biners. If one is worn past your comfort level, simply substitute one of your freshies and call the 7$ a little bit of climber Karma. Many of the popular routes have Fixe steel Draco biners on thier anchors.

First Gully Boulders

Getting There Suggest change

Drive west out of Flagstaff on Fort Valley Road/ Hwy 180, passing the Museum Of Northern Arizona. Turn right onto Snow Bowl RD and proceed upward for several miles.

Eventually, after some switch backing, you will encounter FR 522 on the right (east) side of the road. It is quite conspicuous with a steel gate not more than 50' off the road. It should be well marked. Drive up a rocky hill for a 1/8 mile to a small parking area at the top of a rise on the north side of FR 522. It also serves as a trail head.

Peak’s Crag- Google Earth

Hike 1/8 mile up obvious old two track trail heading north from the parking area. After several minutes, at a large bend, keep your eyes peeled while looking for a climber's trail that breaks off right by a fallen tree over the main trail. If you hike past an old scrap of a rusty car off the main trail in, you've gone too far.

Once you are on the climber's trail, you can shut down your radar, as you follow this trail for 30 minutes through splendid scenery, cascades of lichen covered boulders, and a steady, gentle uphill grade. The trail leads you straight to the Main Wall.

Peaks Crag Aerial Overview/Approach. Not to scale.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peaks Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 166
Clean Slate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 187
New River
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 150
Giggle Drops
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 108
16 Weeks
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 111
Prosthesis
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 117
Be Yourself
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 49
Lion's Bait
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 94
Be the Burn
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 103
Chasing Dragons
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 45
Burning Point
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 62
Up in Smoke
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Debra
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 24
Pitbull Lipstick
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 47
Black Swan
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 13
Shaman School
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clean Slate Peaks Crag > N End
 166
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
New River Peaks Crag > N End
 187
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Giggle Drops Peaks Crag > S End
 150
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
16 Weeks Peaks Crag > N End
 108
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Prosthesis Peaks Crag > N End
 111
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Be Yourself Peaks Crag > N End
 117
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lion's Bait Peaks Crag > N End
 49
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Be the Burn Peaks Crag > S End
 94
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chasing Dragons Peaks Crag > N End
 103
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Burning Point Peaks Crag > S End
 45
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Up in Smoke Peaks Crag > S End
 62
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Debra Peaks Crag > N End
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Pitbull Lipstick Peaks Crag > N End
 24
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Black Swan Peaks Crag > N End
 47
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shaman School Peaks Crag > N End
 13
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Peaks Crag »

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