Has anyone tried these out? I need a new pair of shoes, and I've been a Evolv Shaman user for 3-4 years now and like them, but these new Futura shoes by La Sportiva seem pretty good. Does anyone have any experience with them?
I wore the shamans for a long time and then got some futuras from a buddy, so ive used both.
My futuras are really downsized, so i only use them when the shamans wont do it, theyre my comfy gym shoes. On overhanging (45°) terrain the shoes feel the same. Where the futuras stand out to me is lower angle climbing where the feet are just awful. Ive set the futuras into some little scoops and edges that the shamans would have slid right off of and felt locked in.
Summary: on overhanging theyre very comparable to the shamans. If you want the added ability to stand on next to nothing, maybe the futuras are worth the ducats. Get em tight
I find the Futuras to be a softer version of the Solution. I've used them on sport routes that require smearing on top of the regular edging shenanigans. I've climbed a couple granite trad lines which are mostly friction and some foot jams, something I typically wouldn't want downturned shoes for, and they worked really well on the glassy smears. I really like them a lot, my only concern is that apparently nobody resoles them yet. +1 on getting them tight.
I haven't tried it yet, but Rock and Resole can do edgeless resoles. I believe that they only stock 4mm XS Grip 2, not the 3mm that comes on the Futura.
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