New route in Acadia? (Great Head - left wall)

Anyone else familiar with this climb?

Photos (GIF) here

So we just kinda threw a rope over down the left cliff at Great Head, missed the route we were aiming for, but decided to try climbing under the line anyway. Ended up being a surprisingly fun line that wasn't in the newer guidebook we had, but clearly between two bolted routes in there, Sinbad to the left (#13 in our guidebook) and Emporium to the right (#14 in our guidebook). It felt like a short (40'?) sustained 5.11a-ish, which after the mantel meets up with Sinbad for the remaining 60'ish feet of easier slab climbing.

The picture in the book clearly showed dotted lines for the climbs to the left and right, but the route we took was clearly not in there. It's pretty close to Sinbad, but we did see some people climbing that and it has a very different set of holds - the bolts unreachable from where we were climbing. Favorite route of the weekend by far, is anybody familiar with this?

New route / variation at the Left Wall of Great Head, Acadia?

looks like if you bolted it it would be a squeeze job @ the top?

Good on you guys for playing around and exploring out there!

That line shares a start with Emporium but then climbs its own terrain for the 20' or so to the Sinbad anchor. It's likely that someone has TRed it before, but who knows...

Grant Simmons wrote:Good on you guys for playing around and exploring out there! That line shares a start with Emporium but then climbs its own terrain for the 20' or so to the Sinbad anchor. It's likely that someone has TRed it before, but who knows...

Yes, I recall the guidebook describing Emporium as following the horizontal crack out to the right.... Hopefully more people give it a try, cause it was super fun! And whats a squeeze job?

Daniel Kaye wrote: And whats a squeeze job?

A squeeze job is when someone tries to force a new route that is squeezed between one or two others. In this case it means the bottom looks fairly independent but the top would likely share moves or terrain with another climb.

A squeeze job it is. It was a completely separate line of holds up until the mantel, and then as mentioned it just followed the Sinbad bolts to the top. Maybe it could be considered an alternate and unprotected variation to the start of Sinbad.

Are there any gear options? Protect it with trad gear until the bolted line. Looks from the picture that it would take gear, but not having seen it first hand or climbed it I couldn't be positive.

Andrewww wrote:Are there any gear options?

Might be possible? I've never placed any gear before so I wouldn't be the one to say, but below is a higher red image, maybe that helps to determine? I'm pretty sure the lower half is protectable in the big vertical crack you're following, but the top half (which contains the crux and tricky mantel) might not have much?

Protectable?