Needles beta

I'm from the east coast and have no idea about climbing out west. I keep hearing about the Needles and would love some more information. What is the closest major airport? Best time of year to go? Good guide service to show me around? How are the approaches like? average grades? etc.

Amanda posted to the Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas section, so she probably means the Needles in SD. Which is it Amanda?

mountainproject.com/v/the-n… I have been traveling all over America for the last year seeking out all the classic rock climbing. My 2 favorite places I have been to are the Bugaboos and the needles. The needles are incredible and worth whatever trip you are thinking of planning. There are closer airports but it will probably be much cheaper to fly into LA or Fresno and rent a car. Best time of year is now through october. I don't know anything about the guides. The approach is 3 miles. Most people hike their rack out there the first day and stash it in the woods. To make the needles totally worth it I would say you need a good solid week there also, you should be a confident 10 leader. If you are not at least a confident 5.9+ leader, you will be wasting that trip. The money pitches are all 10 and 11. There are a few 5.9 and below but not enough to warrant making a trip from the east coast.

Ah, didn't notice that! Climbed there as well and also well worth the trip. I know there's a guide service there but I can't remember the name. Approaches and generally short. The grades are stout and the routes are super scary, protected with sketchy bolts and thin gear. This place taught me what the term "spicy" means. mountainproject.com/v/custe…

rgold wrote:Amanda posted to the Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas section, so she probably means the Needles in SD. Which is it Amanda?

Good point! Whoops. Nice catch, rgold.

Edit: I deleted my previous post about the California Needles.

The guide service in the SD Needles is Sylvan Rocks: sylvanrocks.com/ .

I could give a lot more information, but am waiting to hear which area Amanda has in mind.

Also, much as I love the SD Needles, one might ask whether it is the premier choice for a first trip out West.

Amanda, I have climbed everywhere in North America and the Needles in SD is as cool as any other cragging area. interesting formations to say the least...that was the first time I ever did a simul rap with no fixed or passive gear, just laying the rope over a needle summit....some great thoughtful trad routes like Eye of the Needle. The local crowd is very gracious, put me up for free my first visit, fed me, showed me around...they have put a lot of effort in their sport climbing development across the road behind the monument. Sylvan Lake is a beautiful place to camp. You would be foolish to not run up a route or two on Devils Tower as well. They are not far apart. Frank Sanders place is where you want to camp for Devils Tower. Again, one of the more interesting and gracious people you will meet.

At the Needles, tons of easy-moderate grades if that is what you are looking for. Grading wise in terms of comparison...soft compared to older granite climbing areas but the rock quality and run out is an acquired taste as well. You have to be willing to pay the extra to fly into Rapid City, otherwise you have a long ride ahead of you.

Don't get me wrong, I really like the SD Needles. I've done hundreds of climbs there. The reason I questioned them as a destination is that one of the many things that make the West different from the East is the large variety of long multipitch climbs, and I'd say a first Western trip ought to focus on that.

As for grading, Dow, you're the first person I've heard who says it is soft. It is true that MP has softened up some of the grades---in one case by two whole grades (from 5.7 to 5.9)---but by and large I think most people will not find things easier than expected.

Thanks everyone! Looking at SD needles just seen a few pictures and it looks sick. Well worth hiring a guide for the beginning of a trip.

rGold and Dow in one thread, I gotta get in on this like Joe Dugan of the 1927 Yankees (give him credit, same line up as Ruth and Gehrig).

Spent a week of honeymooning at Needles and loved it for all the reasons mentioned already. I'm not sure how much climbing or navigational experience you have, but the landscape is confusing and it's easy to get disoriented. Think Joshua Tree, but with less beta. For that reason alone, it's worth hiring a guide if you got the $$$ or making an effort to meet a stoked local and being shown around early in the trip.

If driving, it's two FULL days to get there from NY but on the brightside...you're sleeping @ Badlands or the crag on your second night out.

A few shots to whet your appetite.

If you're up in the Gunks I could provide lots of info. Meanwhile, here are some useful maps made by Herb Conn that are hard to find now that both Kamps' and Piana's guidebooks are out of print. The annotations in red are mine. All the fine print in the maps is readable. First click the photo. Then click "view full size" underneath the photo. The cursor, when held over the photo, should look like a circle with a + sign inside. Click that and all the text becomes readable.

Cathedral Spires:
Cathedral Spires (Herb Conn Map)

Edit: here's a nicer version already posted on MP. For this you have to right click and then use the + magnifier.


Outlets:
Outlets (Herb Conn Map)

Ten Pins:
Ten Pins (Herb Conn Map)

Needle's Eye
Needle's Eye (Herb Conn Map)

Needle's Eye Detail
Needle's Eye Detail (Herb Conn Map)

Amanda Friedman wrote:Thanks everyone! Looking at SD needles just seen a few pictures and it looks sick. Well worth hiring a guide for the beginning of a trip.

After leaving Cody, WY we made our way over to Custer, SD. We had a great time climbing around Sylvan Lake. Then we got into the backside of Mt. Rushmore. I had to point out all the security stuff on Rushmore to my partner to keep her off of Mt. Rushmore proper.

Lots of diversity, we had a great time and will go back.

Here is a picture of the Pinnacle across the parking lot from the Needles Eye, forgot the name, but it was cool to watch the vehicles come through the cut from altitude.

Roadside pinnacle

It's the Hitching Post, #15 on the Needle's Eye detail map in my post. See also mountainproject.com/v/hitch….

I live in Custer, the area is awesome. Most have short easy approaches. Gear is thin in some places. Face climbing is phenomenal... from everyone I have heard, the routes in the black hills are graded 1-2 grades lower than they should be. Some of the newer routes seem graded higher than they should be. "sylvan rocks" with Daryl Stisser is the best for the needles. Pick up a guide book or stop in Granite Sports in hill city on your way from the Rapid City Airport.

Also stop in the black hills burger and bun for lunch.