Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Mark Anderson, June 2014 |
Page Views: | 4,100 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on May 15, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Among the best 5.13s in Clear Creek, Apoca-Lips Now! is a classic jughaul in an airy position with magnificent stone. This climbs like a Gunks classic, surfing along a huge flake system at the lip of a massive roof. The exposure is matched only by the quality of movement.
Begin as for Saigon, climbing through the pegmatite band to a decent shake below that routes crux. Execute Saigons reachy crux move, and then bust right, hooking and dangling along the lip of the ever more-exposed roof. A few sequential moves and just-neutral holds give way to increasingly larger jugs as the pump grows. Once you reach the arête, turn the corner to join Charlie, and follow the best rock in Clear Creek up the brief-yet-glorious panel to the summit.
Begin as for Saigon, climbing through the pegmatite band to a decent shake below that routes crux. Execute Saigons reachy crux move, and then bust right, hooking and dangling along the lip of the ever more-exposed roof. A few sequential moves and just-neutral holds give way to increasingly larger jugs as the pump grows. Once you reach the arête, turn the corner to join Charlie, and follow the best rock in Clear Creek up the brief-yet-glorious panel to the summit.
Location
Apoca-Lips Now! traverses along the left lip of the cave, beginning with the first few moves of Saigon, before busting right along the lip.
Its possible to belay from the Dirt Ledge or from a nice, large, flat ledge immediately below the route ("the observation deck"). If belaying from the Dirt Ledge, bring a couple slings for the first 1-2 bolts. To reach the base of the climb, from the Dirt Ledge, follow the lower-left fixed line to The Bottleneck, then go up the Bottle Neck to reach the upper-left fixed line. Follow this line left, surmounting a steep bit just past a 2-bolt anchor (immediately below Charlie Dont Surf) to reach a broad sloping ledge. Its also possible to jug directly up to the Observation Deck along a pair of old fixed lines dropping down into the gully east of the Dirt Ledge.
Its possible to belay from the Dirt Ledge or from a nice, large, flat ledge immediately below the route ("the observation deck"). If belaying from the Dirt Ledge, bring a couple slings for the first 1-2 bolts. To reach the base of the climb, from the Dirt Ledge, follow the lower-left fixed line to The Bottleneck, then go up the Bottle Neck to reach the upper-left fixed line. Follow this line left, surmounting a steep bit just past a 2-bolt anchor (immediately below Charlie Dont Surf) to reach a broad sloping ledge. Its also possible to jug directly up to the Observation Deck along a pair of old fixed lines dropping down into the gully east of the Dirt Ledge.
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