Cordelette knots
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Hi guys. Im climbing more multi pitch routes these days and building belay anchors seems to be a common need. |
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Water knot for webbing. Double fisherman's for cord (unless it's dyneema, then triple fisherman's) |
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Triple Fisherman's join is typically manufacturer recommendation for cordelette. Though I usually just use a double fisherman's... |
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I use a tripple fishermans knot and leave the cord in a permant loop. If I neeed longer I can use a sling but thats a rare event for me... |
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Flat overhand. Quick. Easily tied and untied. You don't always need or want your cord in a loop. |
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I got with a triple fishermans knot if it's a smaller diameter cord b/c ill rarely untie it and I can get more cordage for similar weight/bulk. |
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Great info. Will go with the double fisherman. |
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And I'm with you on the euro death knot. It's my go to for a double rope rap. |
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Flat overhand works fine. |
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I have in the past used double (nylon) or triple (dyneema) fisherman's to join cord into a loop. I switched to not tieing a loop at all and just a 8 on a bight at each end (see CMac's Supertopo video ), and now I sometimes don't tie any knots into the cord at all and just clove into each piece (RGold I think posted a video somewhere here on MP of a similar process ). mountainproject.com/v/how-t… youtube.com/watch?v=2q2PdnA… |
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Clove hitch is cool but it's not a knot. I don't see it as acceptable as a main part of and anchor. If a climber wants to clove hitch into and anchor I'm fine with that but I'm not building an anchor with a clove hitch. Triple fishermans for me and I never untie it. |
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djh860 wrote:Clove hitch is cool but it's not a knot. I don't see it as acceptable as a main part of and anchor. If a climber wants to clove hitch into and anchor I'm fine with that but I'm not building an anchor with a clove hitch. Triple fishermans for me and I never untie it.Untying a cordelette is a great tool, and a properly tied flat overhand is a perfectly acceptable knot for this. And people don't need to be afraid of the clove hitch. See link below. guidetricksforclimbers.com/… |
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Djh |
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I use clove hitch I just build anchors with knots |
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Fair enough |
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djh860 wrote:I use clove hitch I just build anchors with knotsThis must really set off your un-safe-o-meter: mountainproject.com/v/ancho… |
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If anchor knots could get icy, I'll use an easier release. Otherwise I'm going with double fisherman on nylon. |
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figure 8 bend. strong as a fishermans, easy to untie and retie, and, best of all, easy to remember when it's dark and you're cold, tired, and hungry because virtually every climber knows how to tie a figure 8. keep it simple |
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Double fish and every climber should know it as well |
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For webbing, water knot is pretty much the standard. Ensure you have long tails and for added saftey, tie overhand knots in the tails to prevent them from slipping through the knot (it's been tested). |
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No reason to keep your cordelette tied at all. Most every anchor you build with a cordelette you tie a knot to create the master point and shelf. That knot closes the system. Starting with closed cordelette limits the options for the anchor. If you need to untie the closed cordelette, untying the knot that closed it is miserable. That knot often has been in place for as long as the cordelette has been in use and loaded repeatedly. |