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Red tags - How long is too long?

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378

Mike mentioned it but again I think it's worth noting how much work can go into developing a route. Even what looks like an easy sport route can be backbreaking labor. Not to mention the scary and dangerous part of dislodging blocks and broken holds. I've spent countless hours hanging in a harness to develop routes. I never truly understood how much work it is until I got into it.

And the cash? It's basically $6-$9 per bolt plus at least $20 for good anchors. I've spent more money on bolts, drill bits, and glue in the last year than on any other climbing gear...

As for the timeline, I'd say one year seems fair if the developer is actively working on it. Of course, you can always just ask permission. I have at least one route in progress right now that I plan on handing over to someone.

Also of note, I really appreciate that some guidebooks mention who the equipper of the route is. Just because you don't get the FA doesn't mean credit shouldn't be given for the hardwork and vision of creating the line.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
KrisFiore wrote: Also of note, I really appreciate that some guidebooks mention who the equipper of the route is. Just because you don't get the FA doesn't mean credit shouldn't be given for the hardwork and vision of creating the line.
+1
The equipper has more impact on the quality of the route than the FFA.
Jay Samuelson · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,896

Interesting that some seem to think the only reason to red-tag a route is to get the FA and your name in a guidebook. The assumption of others intentions is usually a bad place to start forming your opinion of their actions. And has anyone considered that jumping on someone's red-tagged project might be egotistical and selfish as well?

I left a project red-tagged for 4+ years, and am thankful and grateful to the front range community who respected that and let me complete my process. If they hadn't respected that and given me the time for me to complete the project I would've lost a lot of insight, personal growth and self-exploration that was required to battle through 4 years of struggle and pain. It also made me reflect on the selfish nature of red-tagging, climbing in general and my personal motivations involved in the whole mess. I see lots of mentions of FA glory, names in guidebooks or 'getting the credit', and I can honestly say that although those things were factors during periods of that project, in the end they were meaningless. The insights and self-reflection I gained from the struggle was everything. It's not all about sex, drugs and fame from glorious FA's(there is none), sometimes it's the personal journey and experience that someone is after.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
Jay Samuelson wrote: And has anyone considered that jumping on someone's red-tagged project might be egotistical and selfish as well?
I did... Ego puts aside others interest for the sake of your own. "I am here... I will climb... no one can tell me what to do! " seems to be more of an ego trip, than some cat who worked to build a project and would like to finish it before gifting it back to the community.
David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

I found that once I had my name on a few FAs, that getting more didn't really matter that much to me. So, last two routes I bolted I offered the FAs to other people. One to the person who did much of the cleaning on the route cause it was really her route. The other to someone who happened to be out climbing with me the first day we were back at the crag in question after I had bolted the route.

But, as other say, there's a bunch of work and cost involved in developing a route. If the person who's done that work wants to get the FA, they deserve it. If you don't like that, and you want an FA on something, find your own line, clean it, bolt it, etc. Do the work.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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