I am planning to climb the Notch Couloir (Longs Peak) on Tuesday or Wednesday of this week. The Forcast calls for ~15 inches of snow this weekend, but clear and cold Monday-Wednesday. I am aware that this route can be a bad place to be with avalanche danger, and I was hoping someone with more experience could give advice about what conditions may be like in a few days.
Thanks in advance,
Caleb
ZANE
·
May 22, 2015
·
Cleveland, OH
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 20
Just approaching the Notch Couloir would be iffy. I would sincerely wait for things to slough off. Perhaps a week after whenever this weather pattern stops, then seriously look at the avy reports. This dump we're having is most peculiar, and I think it would take a very concentrated and educated look at the snow conditions before giving it a go.
As you probably know, it's not just about getting buried by the snow, it's about that drop off after Broadway.
I've been wanting to climb that route as well this season. I don't have any couloir climb's under my belt yet but have all the gear and have been waiting for the conditions to come in to give them a go. I usually climb trad multi pitch but am wanting to get into alpine and snow climbing this season. If your ever in need of a partner hit me up. 321-200-5173
The snow is extremely variable in the high country right now. It hasn't been freezing completely and I had a friend who said only the top 5 inches or so formed a crust this weekend with unconsolidated slush underneath. This would be a really bad time to climb the notch both from a safety perspective and you would be wallowing in deep snow instead of cramponing on firm snow which is what you want. Crossing broadway would be super sketchy too. With these snow conditions I would give the notch a couple of weeks to solidify but we need some good freeze thaw action to make it happen. be safe
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