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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Vanished
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 107 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Doug Reed |
Page Views: | 3,584 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 20, 2009 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.
Location
To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.
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