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I saw what you did....

Original Post
SenorDB · · Old Pueblo · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 8,550

So I stopped at the area known as Apache Canyon Bouldering on a road trip I took to Albuquerque recently. While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains. I'd like to share a picture at this time but, being so overcome with absurdity, the idea to take one only occurred after we were on the road again.

A couple thoughts on this for the folks that did this and all other would-be chippers:
+First, if a rock was used, that's like feeding bacon to a pig (insert slow head shake here).
+Chipped/manufactured holds stand out as ugly rock scars and are akin to graffiti.
+Chipped holds give climbers a bad reputation with the public in general and in particular with land managers.
+Intentionally altering the rock forever robs all climbers of the opportunity of pushing themselves and the limits of climbing on that route.
+Likewise, manufacturing routes sullies the glow of accomplishment that would've come from pushing yourself to be better.
+Not pushing harder robs you of all the other hard sends that could have been made.
+People lose respect for chipped routes. Would Midnight Lightning be the revered classic it is if holds had been chipped? Maybe if they had made it V0- so everyone with a pair of shoes could have a chance at getting up it?
=Yer only hurting Yerself.

I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity.

Tommy Layback · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 85

Word.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

Welcome to New Mexico.

The reaction to newcomers mostly seems to be:

If you don't like it, leave.

Jon Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

If you don't like it, leave? How about if you can't climb it then move on. Chipping is cowardly. I don't care what area of the world Im climbing in, if I see something that is way not LNT, I'll make my judgements and express them to the world as well. Sorry to the original poster for having to see it, it is indeed a big bummer to come across. I hope people respect the sport for what it is as the future of climbing only grows in popularity.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

Timmy's subdudes carrying on the tradition?

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

I think the big problem with chipping is that if you chipped it to make it easier to climb, why shouldn't the next person chip it to make it easier for them to climb?

Better to let the rock dictate the difficulty level.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

Oh, wait, did I misconstrue the voice and content of the original post which seemed clearly to belittle and antagonize?

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
DesertDan wrote:So I stopped at the area known as Apache Canyon Bouldering on a road trip I took to Albuquerque recently. While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains. I'd like to share a picture at this time but, being so overcome with absurdity, the idea to take one only occurred after we were on the road again. A couple thoughts on this for the folks that did this and all other would-be chippers: +First, if a rock was used, that's like feeding bacon to a pig (insert slow head shake here). +Chipped/manufactured holds stand out as ugly rock scars and are akin to graffiti. +Chipped holds give climbers a bad reputation with the public in general and in particular with land managers. +Intentionally altering the rock forever robs all climbers of the opportunity of pushing themselves and the limits of climbing on that route. +Likewise, manufacturing routes sullies the glow of accomplishment that would've come from pushing yourself to be better. +Not pushing harder robs you of all the other hard sends that could have been made. +People lose respect for chipped routes. Would Midnight Lightning be the revered classic it is if holds had been chipped? Maybe if they had made it V0- so everyone with a pair of shoes could have a chance at getting up it? =Yer only hurting Yerself. I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity.
+1 for Dan for speaking out and calling out the short sighted, thoughtless and stupid.
Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20
beensandbagged wrote: +1 for Dan for speaking out and calling out the short sighted, thoughtless and stupid.
YES! AGREED!

Because calling people out on the internet is so ?effective, ?brave, ?productive, ?antogonistic, ?useless?

Fuck if I know.
Juana · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

This is not new to New Mexico
mountainproject.com/v/bat-c…

Jack Quarless · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0
Bill Czajkowski wrote: YES! AGREED! Because calling people out on the internet is so ?effective, ?brave, ?productive, ?antogonistic, ?useless? Fuck if I know.
No shit, hopefully we can get enough negative attention to close down the entire area to climbing!!

DesertDan wrote:So I stopped at the area known as Apache Canyon Bouldering on a road trip I took to Albuquerque recently. While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains. I'd like to share a picture at this time but, being so overcome with absurdity, the idea to take one only occurred after we were on the road again. A couple thoughts on this for the folks that did this and all other would-be chippers: +First, if a rock was used, that's like feeding bacon to a pig (insert slow head shake here). +Chipped/manufactured holds stand out as ugly rock scars and are akin to graffiti. +Chipped holds give climbers a bad reputation with the public in general and in particular with land managers. +Intentionally altering the rock forever robs all climbers of the opportunity of pushing themselves and the limits of climbing on that route. +Likewise, manufacturing routes sullies the glow of accomplishment that would've come from pushing yourself to be better. +Not pushing harder robs you of all the other hard sends that could have been made. +People lose respect for chipped routes. Would Midnight Lightning be the revered classic it is if holds had been chipped? Maybe if they had made it V0- so everyone with a pair of shoes could have a chance at getting up it? =Yer only hurting Yerself. I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity.
Dan, since you don't know squat about this area, perhaps you should find out more before making windy public ethical decrees. How do you know this issue has not been dealt with previously through much more effective means? Your comments show that you don't understand what you are talking about, and making outlandish claims like yours could possible jeopardize the access for the climbers who regularly use this area and appreciate it. The Santa Fe climbing community does not embrace chipping, that is all a visiting climber needs to know.

BTW,

That stone could never hold a 5.14, duh, it's way too soft.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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