Biner ???
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Hey All |
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Matt, |
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Matt, |
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I use the same setup as Nathan. It's great but if I was rich I would buy the Wild Country Helium biners instead since they have the no-snag nose. Astro biner is a great balance of small and light but still has nice handling. |
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Thanks guys |
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Wild Country Heliums but they ain't cheap. If you want to save money, do it on the gear side and splurge on the rope side. |
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McHull wrote:Thanks guys What's the reseasoning behind using two different biners for rope & gear ends?It's nice to keep biners yhat you clip to bolts identified, because you can gouge the inside of the biner. If you then have the rope running through the gouged biner, you can damage your rope. |
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Thanks Pete! I should have thought of that. |
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Exactly. For my Astro biner'd trad draws I put a silver Astro on the gear/bolt side and a red Astro on the rope side for clipping. I also have some Astro draws with dogbones and they are set up the same way from the factory. This way the red ones are for the rope and it keeps them in better shape so as to not damage the rope. |
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Once that "bolt end" biner is gouged, you're going to run the risk of shredding your cam slings just as you would the rope. |
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Maybe I missed it in somebody else's answer, maybe you weren't even asking the question...but the reason for a wire gate on the rope end is to minimize the risk of gate flutter. Because of the relatively low mass of the wire gate versus the solid gate, it is less likely to momentarily bounce open during a fall. Slap the spine of a carabiner against your palm to see the difference, you can hear a 'click' when doing it with a solid gate biner (which is the gate momentarily bouncing open), you are less likely to be able to get the same result from a wire gate. |
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Thanks for the tips/ advice. |
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Backcountry online has Ozs on sale for 25% off. $6.71. If done through active junky get additional 10% cash back. As does REIs in store sale all black diamond gear is 25% off. |
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I use red DMM alpha trad's for my gear end. Mammut contact strap dynemma runners and silver camp photons as my rope end. Great combination... |
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mountainhick wrote:Once that "bolt end" biner is gouged, you're going to run the risk of shredding your cam slings just as you would the rope. I don't differentiate rope or pro end biners on trad draws (Meaning single runners/shoulder length slings), they are all multi purpose biners. I do carry a few longish quickdraws when trad climbing with pro and rope end biners thusly color coded. But, in the event of clipping and falling on a bolt on a trad route that gouges the biner to where it could cause shredding, it is retired from the trad gear entirely and is moved to service as a sport draw bolt end biner only.That's why if it is a bad gouge you file it off. It also helps you know what biners to inspect quickly. Its also why it is nice to designate a few bolt only draws on your trad rack. Better to keep the heavy sport whippers on sport designated draws if you can help it. |
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I recognize you profile picture. Triple S is a great climb. |
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madrockclimbing.com/product…
I use these on the rope end of all of my draws. They're cheap, reasonably light, and are dead easy to clip with the bent wiregate. Yes, it says mad rock. Mine have been going strong for 8 years now. |
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My advice for biners in general is to try out every biner you can find and see which ones just "feel right" in your hands when clipping forwards and backwards etc. My hands are more like paws and the small biners are awkward for me for example. All the newer biners are safe so handling becomes one of the more important attributes. Wire gates, std gates - bent gates etc all enter into the decision but within those categories - handling is a big deal. |
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thanks for the advice Chris. |
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McHull wrote: thanks for the advice Chris. I have big ole monkey hands I understand your pain, I too have large hands. The DMM Ultima is my biner of choice for easy clipping with my large hands. I rack all my gear with it, the only drawback is the minor weight penalty. |