Mountain Project Logo

Deep water soloing Lake Champlain

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I believe the problem came when the cliff was bolted. There's some seriously good quality and difficult lines. Apparently a big number of people were commuting to the land to try the routes and they got pretty pissed about it. I have no clue if this applies to the boulders or not. Probably best to check with Crag or just stay away. Be clear that the issue with access did not start because of the work they are doing.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

The Diocese has had problems with people out there for a while, the boss over there was coming out and talking to us back in 2001/02 so this is by no means a new thing........the spot has obviously gotten more popular since then so I can see why they're concerned. Best thing to do is go talk to the bishop, the guy we dealt with was cool and he gave us a written pass which allowed us to go on the property. He didn't care about us bouldering but they definitely didn't like us on the cliffs.

DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 922

CragVT is our local chapter of the Access Fund, these groups know how to fight for access to our crags and are professionals at what they do. In order to be successful climbers need to respectfully stay off the land. As Max stated earlier the Diocese has asked for climbing to stop.

It doesn't matter if you have gotten permission in the past or not this is an ongoing access issue, so stay off the land. The boulder in the water from what I can tell using the state agency of natural resources tools, is not part of their parcel but in order to access it without breaking the rules you would have to paddle or swim out to it, and anchor your boat in the water not on the shore.

If climbing a slimy limestone boulder means that much to you then go ahead and paddle out there but jeopardizing climbing for the rest of the community is not worth it in my opinion.

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,088
DRusso wrote:CragVT is our local chapter of the Access Fund, these groups know how to fight for access to our crags and are professionals at what they do. In order to be successful climbers need to respectfully stay off the land. As Max stated earlier the Diocese has asked for climbing to stop. It doesn't matter if you have gotten permission in the past or not this is an ongoing access issue, so stay off the land. The boulder in the water from what I can tell using the state agency of natural resources tools, is not part of their parcel but in order to access it without breaking the rules you would have to paddle or swim out to it, and anchor your boat in the water not on the shore. If climbing a slimy limestone boulder means that much to you then go ahead and paddle out there but jeopardizing climbing for the rest of the community is not worth it in my opinion.
Its not slimy.
DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 922

I think you are missing the point sam... Also the top of that boulder is covered in bird shit and the starting holds are all covered in slime...

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,088
DRusso wrote:I think you are missing the point sam... Also the top of that boulder is covered in bird shit and the starting holds are all covered in slime...
You're the only one shitting all over the boulder talking like that. And what point am I missing? That people I don't even know have ruined my favorite summer spot for me by stirring up shit with the Diocese when what I've been doing there for the last 6 years hasn't been a problem for me or them? I've never once touched a hold on any of the cliff climbs and now people are telling me I can't do my thing thats not even on their damn property because of other people refusing to respect the Diocese and bolting on their land? You'd be pissed too.

Also who are you and how do you know me?
DR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 922

Sam I respect you as a boulderer, I just don't get why you are pushing the issue for that one boulder. I understand its close to town and is fun to go to in the summer, but why not go to Smuggs, Mackenzie Pond, Rumney, Farley, Pway there are just better options that are open for climbing.

Yes it sucks that lone rock is closed for climbing now, and yes it sucks that other people have ruined a good thing, but if you ever hope to use the land again for climbing it is best to keep off and let CragVT mend the relationship between climbers and the Diocese.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Agree with DRusso, that boulder is cool but not worth potential issues....I climbed it once or twice like 14 years ago and that was enough....plenty of good stuff in Bolton, Pinneo Brook, River Rd, Smuggs, etc etc. You can be in Bolton in 20 minutes and have got a big circuit of pretty good problems

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,088

Its not about the climbing its about the whole place. Its a swimming spot with a nice safe 20 ft jump into the water far safer than anything else around town. The only thing is you have to climb up it to jump off. How am I supposed to get to my favorite spot to sit on top of and jump off on a hot summer day (you know when you cant go to Bolton and Smuggs could even be too hot) when I can't even climb up the stupid easy V0- back side?

jamesldavis1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

If anyone is willing to show around a V1 climber at smuggs this weekend, thatd be awesome

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Deep water soloing Lake Champlain"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.