Camp Matik belay device

So the Camp device arrived in the mail a couple days ago. The weight is the first thing you notice. It's noticeably heavier than the orginal Grigri. Still though if the device works like Camp says I can live with it.

I took it to Earth Treks last night. I figured mess with it there where my leader can crater onto a mat. The device worked good considering the 10.2 rope. The device never locked up pulling slack like a Grigri. Pulling slack wasn't easy but again 10.2 rope. Dropping somebody was NOT the problem. Actually it was the opposite. I couldn't lower without the safety catch locking up when top roping. I read the directions and saw the high friction method. That's a real PITA. The ropes at the gym were 10.2mm which is at the limit of the device. Anyone have advice? I know that might be tough with the Matik being so new.

I'm going to try it outside this weekend or if I can find a partner tomorrow. I'm going to use a 10.2 and a 9.1. I'll post the results. I think outdoors is where the Matik will shine. I would imagine there's too much friction between worn 10.2 gym ropes and the anchors there.

Please hit me up here if you've used the Camp Matik

The Matik's cam engages softly allowing a bit of rope to slip through. That's suppose to lower the force exerted on the piece of gear you fall on and or give a softer catch. Kinda like a tube style device, an ATC. Plus it's got a safety catch that locks if the lever is opened too fast.

I bought it because my wife has no problem catching me at the gym but outside.. Forget about it. She wants a Grigri and a tree to anchor to. I got her away from the tree anchor thing but she wants a Grigri. I thought this would work well for her needs while keeping gear from ripping out. I dropped weight and increased strength the last two months. I'm getting on routes, nothing hard but 5.7-5.8 that don't have any ledges, that I might fall. So I want my wife, Kathy to feel confident. The fact we go climbing and have a good time I'll buy anything to keep that happening. I got some friends who their wives... Well that's another thread.

Climb for joy wrote:Bill Thank you for your response. That does make sense. Kind of gives somewhat of a dynamic belay a little bit. And keeps the leader from being dropped on a lower.

Yea but it also keeps me from lowering someone quicker than two weeks from now!

anyone else use one of these and have any thoughts?

I've used the Matik for a minute now and have some more to write.

The Camp Matik works great for belaying a leader and top roping outside. The device does seem to give a soft catch. Lowering isn't a struggle either. The device works well with a 9.1 or a 10.2 rope. The Matik's cam doesn't grab as quick as a Grigri.

Again the Matik doesn't work in the gym. The anchors create so much friction that the safety catch constantly engages. Lowering sucks! The lead ropes in my gym are worn 10.2mm. These ropes don't feed well through the Matik.

I would have to catch a couple more falls before I'm sold on this thing.

Thanks for the write-up! Does the matik really retail for $200?

PJHeinz83 wrote:Thanks for the write-up! Does the matik really retail for $200?

Yes.. I got that thing for $160 from GearX during a sale. It was worth it to me as I have a couple friends and a wife that I think could benefit from the design. From what I've seen It's not easy catching 255 lbs if you suck at belaying or if you weigh 100 less lbs than I.

Why not use a Grigri? It's tried, tested, easy, and dependable with proper use. With such a weight difference between you the climber and a lighter belayer, the catch will be soft. Particularly since you've gotten away from tying the belayer down. A proper belay provides a much softer catch regardless of device than an improper belay and tube style device. Take your belayers to the gym and take a ton of whippers on all types of terrain so you're both confident in falling/catching.

Jesse,

Thanks for the suggestions. My wife and friends do use a Grigri. The new device is more just for my wife and just another new toy for me (Kinda like 30L pack). The Matik is supposed be softer on the gear I fall on as well. Camp says the Matik lets a little rope slip through like a tube style device.

I've tried the gym thing to get my two friends act together but nothing seems to work. I'm convinced that some people just can't belay. I thought slamming one of them into the bottom of the wall would teach them to pay attention but..

FYI: steepandcheap.com/gear-cach…

Bill Kirby wrote:The Matik's cam engages softly allowing a bit of rope to slip through. That's suppose to lower the force exerted on the piece of gear you fall on and or give a softer catch. Kinda like a tube style device, an ATC. Plus it's got a safety catch that locks if the lever is opened too fast. I bought it because my wife has no problem catching me at the gym but outside.. Forget about it. She wants a Grigri and a tree to anchor to. I got her away from the tree anchor thing but she wants a Grigri. I thought this would work well for her needs while keeping gear from ripping out. I dropped weight and increased strength the last two months. I'm getting on routes, nothing hard but 5.7-5.8 that don't have any ledges, that I might fall. So I want my wife, Kathy to feel confident. The fact we go climbing and have a good time I'll buy anything to keep that happening. I got some friends who their wives... Well that's another thread.

Ha! Found it! This old thread has some irony for me.
My wife is the opposite, she learned to belay before The ATC, but Switched to a Square tube device from a sprung Stitch plate. & used all manner of ATC type devices, till the beginning of this century.

Then, we moved from the Gunks. Now two children, and old knees later, I am just happy that she still gives me a belay. We mostly equalize her anchor between her and a tree or built anchor.
Everything is cleanable on . . . . Now here is the point . . . . Lower /rappel, It would be nice if I could stop having to leg wrap, or clove hitch off when my gear needs more than a bit of work to remove.
She holds me perfectly but I still back her up usually a clove hitch to a lock'r on my secondary belay loop, a tied loop.similar to a PAS,
(great way to carry a short stretch of 5-6ml, tripled into a loop that can be extended)
Anyway...

I'm trying not to climb with, or take a lot of weight with us. So she has always held up the Gri, and said
"You Carry it"
so I have and still only I use it.

In hopes of avoiding the crisis of her refusal to use a Grigri , a thing that always ruffles her feathers at the start of the actual climbing, today I didn't ask .....
She used one, that has no spring & the fully functioning one (both, 1st gen. #1s)
She liked the broken one, but it's a milestone

But it is Now 2o16, and her actual grip strength speed reflex etc. ( attention span?Mm )
How are the 'new' devices? Is there anything out now that is a good unit to convince my old school old lady to please join the modern rock climbing world?

This is in hopes of not having to start the thread that Bill K astutely points out needs to be started.
Something along the lines of :
" He may be your husband, but he is my 'GoTo' climbing partner/rope gun . . . . YMMV...

! (She's in the bath as I tap this out so...)

Michael Schneider wrote: Is there anything out now that is a good unit to convince my old school old lady to please join the modern rock climbing world?

Just a list of devices, not recommendations
Edelrid Micro-Jul

Mammut Smart

Click-up

Extensive threads on mp.com on all of these, listing pros, cons, and pointless noise