Fingerboard: Repeaters vs. Dead Hangs

Rajiv Ayyangar wrote:I wish I'd started training earlier, mainly for injury prevention.

Yes that's my motivation for looking for measurable training exercises, with a straightforward way to incrementally + controllably increase the loads -- so I don't overdo it.

If I were younger I could just do lots of bouldering, and progress much faster in my climbing. But I'm afraid it would take me too long to heal from the (minor?) injuries of the uncontrolled stresses.

And I've been very happy with my long-term results from using a measurable incremental progressive training approach in other sports.

Ken

kenr wrote: I do have some familiarity with the mechanics of forces and torques in finger joints, because I spent several years of my life doing research on strategies for controlling a multi-finger multi-joint robot hand.

Proposal:

Use said knowledge to build robot hands with steel cables for tendons. Replace weak human hands with bad-ass bionic hands. Then crush your projects.

Problem solved.

Jon Moen wrote: Proposal: Use said knowledge to build robot hands with steel cables for tendons. Replace weak human hands with bad-ass bionic hands. Then crush your projects.

Building a robot hand is too much work.
Much simpler is:
carry Talon hook for small edges, carry Cliffhanger hook for larger edges, carry a foot-long wand to place the Cliffhanger hook higher on dynos which are out of reach. Carry C3 size 00 for those stupid Gunks "finger" cracks that don't offer decent jams (at least for my big fingers). Assorted stoppers for even thinner cracks.

So why waste all this time training dynamic finger strength?

carry Fifi hook to rest on pro --
So why waste time training static isometric grip endurance?

Ken

Climbing friend,

I do believe the hang boarding is for the peoples with too much sexual frustration, or those who simply cannot get to the boudlers often enough to train their crushing grip of iron fist, with relentless determination searing from within like 10,000 burning suns.

However, I remain secretly curious to see if some training fingering the board will help me make bold flash at the next level. Read on, climbing friend, for my question most serious is this -

I would be liking to climb hard at least 3-4 days per week because I am believing this is good to constantly improve technique and climbing fitness / strength, and so far I only train this way utilizing the 4-plan and routes/boulders. But I would also like to try perhaps one day of the board fingering per week. I find it unthinkable to reduce the volumes of my climbings in order to simply hang from the fingering board afraid to face my challenges on real climbing rocks, and cannot believe for serious this is a good idea.

If I already climb nearly as much as my body would be handling, shall I simply finger the board on what would have previously been a rest day, or may I do it at the end of a climbing session? Doing it immediately before a climbing sessions and after a warm ups seems most unpleasant, and not at all excellent, or enjoyable, because if I finger the board very hard with crushing grips of iron fist or eagle claw type, I do not believe I would make very productive climbing session or very many excellent, bold, training flash.

Also, if I am to finger the board at the end of a climbing session, may it matter most if I do max hangs with long rests or repeaters?

Aleks Zebastian wrote:Climbing friend, I do believe the hang boarding is for the peoples with too much sexual frustration, or those who simply cannot get to the boudlers often enough to train their crushing grip of iron fist, with relentless determination searing from within like 10,000 burning suns. However, I remain secretly curious to see if some training fingering the board will help me make bold flash at the next level. Read on, climbing friend, for my question most serious is this - I would be liking to climb hard at least 3-4 days per week because I am believing this is good to constantly improve technique and climbing fitness / strength, and so far I only train this way utilizing the 4-plan and routes/boulders. But I would also like to try perhaps one day of the board fingering per week. I find it unthinkable to reduce the volumes of my climbings in order to simply hang from the fingering board afraid to face my challenges on real climbing rocks, and cannot believe for serious this is a good idea. If I already climb nearly as much as my body would be handling, shall I simply finger the board on what would have previously been a rest day, or may I do it at the end of a climbing session? Doing it immediately before a climbing sessions and after a warm ups seems most unpleasant, and not at all excellent, or enjoyable, because if I finger the board very hard with crushing grips of iron fist or eagle claw type, I do not believe I would make very productive climbing session or very many excellent, bold, training flash. Also, if I am to finger the board at the end of a climbing session, may it matter most if I do max hangs with long rests or repeaters?

Climbing friend of wise type,

I for serious would like to know the answering to my question. May I train the max finger strength with max hang at the end of a climbing session or is i pointless if you do anything but very light climbing session before the max hangings?

Can you do a 4plan to the max at the end of a full climbing session? That answers your question, too.

climbing friend,

if my sexual frustration levels have peaked, and I am unwilling to face challenge on real climbing rocks, and I am ready for serious hangboard program with spreadsheet utilization, may it be better for crushing grip of iron fist strength to do the repeaters or the max single hangs?

It is subject of debate yes and no evidence yes?

Why do the brothers crushing Anderson say you must do repeater and it is best? Have the brothers crushing anderson ever experimented with the maximum crushing single hang?

Why do others say you must do maximum single hang and repeaters are for power endurance, yet crushing anderson say the repeaters they build great strength, for squeezing the rocks.

Can someone study this please in scientific way for evidence? Perhaps for phd thesis and tell me? And perhaps link to me a hangboard spreadsheet. I thank to you.

Aleks Zebastian wrote:climbing friend, if my sexual frustration levels have peaked, and I am unwilling to face challenge on real climbing rocks, and I am ready for serious hangboard program with spreadsheet utilization, may it be better for crushing grip of iron fist strength to do the repeaters or the max single hangs? It is subject of debate yes and no evidence yes? Why do the brothers crushing Anderson say you must do repeater and it is best? Have the brothers crushing anderson ever experimented with the maximum crushing single hang? Why do others say you must do maximum single hang and repeaters are for power endurance, yet crushing anderson say the repeaters they build great strength, for squeezing the rocks. Can someone study this please in scientific way for evidence? Perhaps for phd thesis and tell me? And perhaps link to me a hangboard spreadsheet. I thank to you.

You are my hero! I wish I can subscribe to your posts. You are like Dom Broscience!

climbing friend,

I thank to you for your kind word. The most sciency seeming thing I read these times passing is from Steve Maisch writing review most smart of the literature he find on strength training most isometric:

stevemaischtraining.com/iso…

But even from this it seems for obvious not conclusive, and that not enough sciency science studies have been performed. How then, may you find your way among this difficult, cold forest of lack of informations and science of the bros? It would make you quite afraid, yes, wanting to run home cry to mommy.

I read one post somewhere of brother crushing anderson stating something like they suspecting repeater may be better for maximum crushing strength compared to single hangings of the finger, because olympic style powerlifters do the multiple repetition to raise their one rep max, and do not only work at their 1 RM range at all times. This seems to make sense, yes, but no one knows really yes.

^^^^^
The biggest difference I see of the repeater vs max hang is the repeater camp usually have the entire session on fingerboarding while the max hang camp usually treat fingerboarding as supplemental training. I imagine it'll be really hard to get a full workout doing max hang only. Regardless, I don't think it's a question of either/or, rather how much of each, and that'll depend on what else you are doing & what you are after.

reboot wrote:^^^^^ The biggest difference I see of the repeater vs max hang is the repeater camp usually have the entire session on fingerboarding while the max hang camp usually treat fingerboarding as supplemental training. I imagine it'll be really hard to get a full workout doing max hang only. Regardless, I don't think it's a question of either/or, rather how much of each, and that'll depend on what else you are doing & what you are after.

climbing friend,

I thank you, but I need the answers, and cannot live in a world with such ambiguity. I am after maximum crushing grip strength at all costs - crushing palm of iron fist, steel talon finger of the eagle, and mighty oak squeezing endurance style!

climbing friend,

Can someone give to me the answers?

Perhaps one brother crushing anderson may experiment with a cycle of lower volume maximum intense single hangs, while the other brother crushing anderson may undergo their holy repeater cycle, and then they may have a flash off on the climbing rocks. In this way they will see who is the superior brother after all, ho ho, and which brother will have the mightiest grip strength improvements after experiment, and therefore whether you build more crushing strength with single hang or with repeaterings.

Maybe climbing friend Aleks Zebastian should try both and see which one gives him the mightiest crushing grip strength.

For someone who's never hangboarded before (in a structured way), I'd definitely recommend repeaters. You can expect to see a lot of steady progress if you're untrained on the hangboard, and the intensity will be lower, decreasing your chance of injury.

I'm also interested in learning which method is more effective for advanced climbers, but I think it's a pretty hard experiment to run, and the results probably depend a lot on the climbers' past training.

ScoJo wrote:Maybe climbing friend Aleks Zebastian should try both and see which one gives him the mightiest crushing grip strength. For someone who's never hangboarded before (in a structured way), I'd definitely recommend repeaters. You can expect to see a lot of steady progress if you're untrained on the hangboard, and the intensity will be lower, decreasing your chance of injury. I'm also interested in learning which method is more effective for advanced climbers, but I think it's a pretty hard experiment to run, and the results probably depend a lot on the climbers' past training.

Climbing friend,

I do conduct my own experiments with hangboarding styles various, types of fish oil and fishheads eaten, and electroshock therapy, but there seem to be too many variable and too much subjectivity for me to have any idea which is better, myah.

Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing friend, I do conduct my own experiments with hangboarding styles various, types of fish oil and fishheads eaten, and electroshock therapy, but there seem to be too many variable and too much subjectivity for me to have any idea which is better, myah.

Aleks, how do cheesesteaks factor into all this? Or have you stopped eating them in order to train harder?

climbing friend,

I enjoy the cheesesteak for power and tastings. However yes I try to limit myself to only 5 cheesesteak per week in order to be reducing BMI for flash, but I find it quite difficult.

Sometimes if I deny myself the cheesesteak for some days, I will have unbearable desire for more and eat up to several at one time sitting, resulting in the deep guilt and the deep secret shame.