Last minute North Carolina trip. Seeking help!

Good morning all,

My girlfriend and I have been planning a trip to Colorado for a few months now. We were originally set to leave on Saturday but the weather isn't doing great out there and, fearing the rock may not dry out at all, we cancelled the trip and we're going to road trip down to North Carolina instead. Thank god for Southwest refundable flights!!

We have always talked about visiting North Carolina. It seems like such a beautiful state and I really want to check out quite a few breweries in the area as well.

I'm seeking help planning out our itinerary. I have done lots of research on the climbing in the state but I'd love to hear some local opinions on what's best and how to make the best out of our time. We will be driving down on Saturday and need to be back in NH by the 31st.

We're looking mostly for easy to moderate multi-pitch, quality bouldering, and sport climbing up to 5.11ish. There's so many routes that I want to check out that I want to have a realistic plan for making the most of our time. I'd love to do The Great Arch, Sundial Crack, The Prow in Linville Gorge, etc., and other classic lines of this caliber. We also want to visit Asheville for a significant amount of time. Could we get any help on planning this out? What would be good to do over a busy memorial day weekend? What's near Asheville? Any local beta?

I'm really just spitballing here. I know no matter what we will have an awesome time, I just want to make the best of this last minute decision to come down to North Carolina.

Thanks so much!

Cheers,

Matt

Man it is a beautiful state! I haven't climbed out at Stone, but I'm betting it'll be too hot this time of year to climb the Great Arch. Linville Gorge is amazing and has routes of all levels to choose from. Pick up a copy of Selected Climbs if you can find it. Honestly this weekend looks like it has pretty good conditions to boulder around the Boone/Blowing Rock area. There isn't much sport climbing but if you're bouldering around Boone you can also hit up the Dump for some bolted routes.

Check out Wicked Weed in Asheville for sure.

Matt,

Good choice! North Carolina is a great time. I went down a few years back and enjoyed it immensely. Here are my thoughts.

Looking Glass is incredible and the climbing is really unique, under-clinging eyebrows and high-stepping. I brought tri-cams with me, as was suggested, but ended up using cams more often. I did the Nose, which was quite fun; was bested by Titties and Beer; and got on some other good climbs. Free camping abounds. We camped about ten minutes from the Sliding Rock.

I also advise visiting the Hub, an outdoor store/pub...what's not to love there.

thehubpisgah.com/

Enjoy,

Sean (tommy)

Drew, I feared that about Stone Mtn this time of year. No worries at all. Thanks for the tips. I've heard Wicked Weed as well as the Funkatorium are phenomenal. Can't wait to check it out...

Tommy, thanks for the beta! That outdoor slide looks like a blast.

Since you probably won't be hitting up Charlotte on your trip, if you do see NoDa Brewing's Jam Session or Hop Drop and Roll - definitely try those.

Looking Glass, Linville Gorge will fit the bill. There's sport climbing at middle Hawksbill (and amazing trad routes), multipitch al over the gorge - Mummy, Daddy, Prow all would be great choices in that range. Ashevile is a good base as it's close to both of those areas. It's going to be a busy weekend in the forests, expect camping spots to be hard to come by. Stone is out unless you get up there real early, it will be hot on the face once the sun starts to heat it up.

Good call Brian - I forgot about the sport routes at Middle Hawksbill! I love the climbing out there.

Not sure what grades you're looking for but here are a few moderate suggestions...

Looking Glass - The Nose, Sundial, Peregrine, Rats Ass, Unfinished Concerto, Gemini Crack, etc. Linville - The Mummy, Daddy, Prow, Bumblebee Buttress, Table Rock stuff. Ship Rock - Boardwalk, Hindu Kush, etc. Skip Stone Mountain...too hot. Maybe Laurel Knob if cooler and/or partly cloudy, go early. As mentioned lots of stuff to do around Asheville/Brevard.

This post is kind of crazy actually. Someone changing destinations from Colorado to North Carolina to get away from rainy weather! Forecast does look like a nice stretch coming up here in NC though.

Moore's wall has a good section with alot of 5.3 - 5.9 250ish ft climbs. Zoo View is an amazing climb. (my fav bouldering spot in NC is also here, tons in the V4-V6 range)

The great arch is probably doable if you start early in the morning but it can get very hot in the summer (tried doing it barefoot onetime and burnt my feet)

Table rock / linville gorge has alot of nice climbs 5.4 - 5.9. Planing on being out there this weekend, one of my favorite camping areas.

Laurel knob is probably not something i would recommend if you are not used to NC, it is a long hike in with alot of elevation change and there are other better options.

Shiprock isn't bad and is right next grandmother boulders but it isn't the best documented boulder field. Also not to far from twisted / compression falls which is a cool area with a waterfall you can jump off / climb.

Stone Mountain is going to be really hot this time of year.

Moore's Wall (outside Winston - Salem) will be doable, but very humid. If you do, Zoo View, Air Show, Break On Through, Blue Chock, Golden Earing, Doo or Dive, Wailing Wall, Quaker State are the best!

I would plan to spend time in Western NC given the time of year. I would focus on three areas: Linville Gorge (Shortoff, Table, Hawkesbille), Looking Glass (North Side primarily), and Boone (Ship Rock and Grandmother Boulders).

I love shortoff for quiet days where you may only see 1 or 2 other parties. There's plenty of 2 and 3 pitch moderates. Table Rock is busier, but also a little more convenient.

Ship Rock is a great summer crag! The bouldering is right up the street. If you want to sport climb you can go to Little Wilson down the street also. The ice cream in blowing rock is good too.

Looking Glass is not to be missed! The Nose area and South side are going to be hot, but the North Side has some great moderates. The cliff is about an hour+ outside of Asheville, so there's plenty to do. Check out the Bier Garten.

Have fun! Bring sunscreen!

JKeller wrote:For an amazing scenic drive, hop on the Blue Ridge Parkway near Boone and take that to Asheville. (or the little side roads that parallel the parkway if you're looking to explore) About a quarter of the way between Boone and Asheville on the BRP is Linville Gorge. Blind Squirrel Brewing and Dry County Brewing are also along the way for a sample of down home NC microbreweries. In Asheville, Wicked Weed is a must. (Funkatorium is their tasting room)

The Funkatorium is their SOUR bar, Wicked Weed itself is the main bar and restaurant, both are incredible stops and Wicked Weed makes some of the best beers on the East Coast IMO...the climbing beta had been covered by everyone, but the beer beta is much more important ;)

I will second Pisgah and the Highcountry as your best options for climbing and bouldering.

There is actually a similar post (last min trip) running over at mtbr right now. Some good brewery recommendations. forums.mtbr.com/north-south… Asheville to Linville isn't too far but still a good drive, especially after driving all that way. So maybe hit it up on the way down or going home. The gravel road to TR eats up a good bit of time. The prow, mummy and daddy are awesome, but you'll want to plan to car camp in the TR lot if you hit them up. It is a decent approach and a good bit of climbing if you do all 3, plus if you don't start early/late you'll be behind someone for sure. Tons of great climbs at TR proper too. Amazing easy multipitch routes that can be climbed on bolts only if you don't mind a little runout. Cave route (do the 3rd pitch to the top), Jim Dandy (second pitch is fun). Combining Jim Daddy with the 3rd pitch of Cave route is awesome. North Ridge, My route and Peek a Boo are great trad lines in the lower range. Tons of great moderates too. Super easy approach, so you can climb a few the day before or after hitting the prow/M/D. Might want to climb TR first just to get a feel for linville climbing. The Mommy/Daddy are similar.

You might want to check out some of the stuff at Stone Depot and Cedar. It is closer to asheville if you are staying there. There is a guidebook for sale that should be at the local stores in asheville (thread here about it). Lots of easy low angle mixed slab multipitch climbs. Also might not be as crowded as Looking Glass.

Great bouldering and trad at Rumbling Bald, but not too many easier climbs, though fruit loops is awesome.

Whitesides, Big Green and Laurel Knob. If your from NH, this is the real rock in NC.

PS. North Carolina is called the other "granite state". And Panther Town Valley (Big Green and the Knob) is called "The Yosemite of the east"

Whitesides, Big Green and Laurel are fantastic cliffs. However, I would not call them great places for easy (definitely not for easy) to moderate multi-pitch, so take that into consideration. All 3 have long run outs on easier climbing (5.8 and below), as long as you are comfortable with that then they should definitely be on your list. Worth noting that Whitesides and Laurel are also starting to get pretty warm this time of year.

Hey everyone! I just wanted to thank you for all the recommendations. I haven't had much time to post more here but all the information has been incredibly valuable.

Ain't any worse than Cannon.

Check out Wicked Weed in Asheville for sure. -Yeah man!!

The Great Arch! Stone Mountain. Do it! The climbing is mellow, but it's probably the most aesthetic climb I've ever done. Also Table, go to Table, lots there.

Hey guys, I wanted to thank you all again for your replies and suggestions. After a couple nice days in Virginia we finally got into Asheville last night. Had an amazing time at Wicked Weed!!!

Unfortunately we avoided Colorado because of rainy weather and it's looking like we brought it here to North Carolina. Any tips on where to go to find dry rock?

Northside of looking glass. Creatures of waste and glass menagerie stay really dry.