bolt broke on climb the other day

I posted this on the route this happened, "end all, be all" Cochise Stronghold.

I never would have imagined that this bolt would have broken.

Broken bolt!!!!!!!!!!

The first bolt of pitch 2 broke yesterday. This bolt was about 2' above the first pitch anchor. The bolt seems like it was used mostly to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. The climbing to the next bolt is not so difficult, so the route is still doable.

The leader hung on the bolt to help in the transition to leave the anchor. About four bolts up the leader fell on a new bolt at the crux. The rope straightening out broke the bolt that he had hung on moments before. I can't imagine it took more than 50lbs of outward pressure on the bolt to break it. Yikes!!!!!

The bolt stud is now sitting about 1/4 inch out of the rock. The bolt broke at the first thread. The bolt had no fresh metal look where it broke. It was rusted completely through.

This did not make me feel reassured on the strength of bolts in general. I think this was a 3/8" bolt with a metolius hanger, not some sketchy 1/4" bolt or an old bolt with a SMC hanger. The bolt and nut were very rusted, but I would have considered this to be a good bolt.

just goes to show... you cant see what it looks like in there. I feel weird about the rusty ones and just dont like bolts so much in general... glad you and your partner are fine

Sorry this is late, but I just saw your post. Cochise is granite, isn't it? Do you have an idea of how old the bolt is? You said the bolt & nut were rusted, does this mean the hanger was not? From your description, it sounds like the bolt may have been galvanized (not stainless) and the hanger is stainless steel.

I doubt it's a strength issue, per se. Considering the rust, I'd guess the bolt has corroded and broken. Can you describe the bolt or post a photo?

Does the metal at the break have sharp edges and no deformation? Or is does it look like it was deformed (pulled taffy) and then broke/rusted.

Probably the rust you see isn't "normal rust". If the bolt had broken due to normal rusting the shaft would be much reduced in diameter.

By the way, a bolt that has ANY signs of rust is suspect.

Info is at "be all, end all". End pinnacle. Cochise stronghold

climberz wrote:Info is at "be all, end all". End pinnacle. Cochise stronghold

Okay, found it.

You, Geir, et al, have a good handle on the situation. From the looks of it, I agree it's normal rusting of the bolt.

The reason I asked is that SCC of a stainless bolt in granite has never been documented (and may never be) but I keep watching for it.