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Unknown climbing in the Sunapee region - NH

Original Post
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Greetings New Hampshirites,

I've been in the Lake Sunapee region for a while now, and have noticed an incredible amount of glacial eratics and sometimes sizable ledges on the sides of the road. That said it seems like there is no known information about climbing around here.

I know that places like the Historical Newbury Cut exist, and have even been bolted a little. I see boulders that look really climbable, and even have one in my back yard, but nothing seems to have been mapped or established at all. I'm just looking for info on anything around the area that I could check out and potentially put on a map or into a pdf so that some local climbing can be established. If you have any info please let me know!

Oliver McMahon · · Nashua, NH · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 285

The cut is well established but the locals tell me they'd like to keep it off the record. It's got some good climbs if you're in the area, but it's not something people would travel for.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Marlow, Wilmot - sorta, kinda in the Lake S area...

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
omcmahon wrote:The cut is well established but the locals tell me they'd like to keep it off the record. It's got some good climbs if you're in the area, but it's not something people would travel for.
I do live in Newbury right now, could you refer me to anyone to get out there?
Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Eli,

Don't know anyone in the area that can show you around. Marlow is easy - look at a map - go west from route 10 in the town center for a few miles. Signed parking for a hike on your right. Cliffs are less than 10 mins.

Mark

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

I meant more someone who knew the routes, thank you though!

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Eli,

I kinda know the routes at Marlow as I go out there a couple times a summer. I actually thought I had a hand drawn map with some grades but can't find it. Wilmot I've only poked around a bit.

Mark

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The ancient Paul Duval topos may be around somewhere..mine is ??? If you know of Base, he is a source and some of the Chinos maybe.
There used to be quite a few bolts at Marlowe,,they come and go.

Dave and Marie Sabal also did a book that drifts around sometimes about a few other areas/

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

John,

I've got a Sabal guide and don't remember anything for Marlow. Now you're gonna make me have to go look for it (I'll make sure I have a beer!).

I haven't seen Base in ages - my GF has a friend that I think works (or worked) with him and stays in touch.

Since I've been going out to Marlow the last few years there's been no new bolts or bolts chopped. I will say this - some of the worse placed bolts I've ever clipped are on a couple of the climbs there. And one of the crags are in serious need of some scrubbing - and doubt those bolted climbs have seen an ascent for quite some time.

Mark

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Anyone interested in climbing in the Newbury Cut at some point this summer? I work in Newbury and would love to check it out on a rope sometime. I'm not super interested in onsight soloing....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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