First time to Zion

So I'm visiting Zion Nat. Park this week, for the first time ever. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for routes in the 5.9s to 5.10+ range. I really want to get on The Headache. I lead trad in the 5.10 range. My partner and I dont have enough gear to aid climb, so that narrows things down.
I'm just curious to know of what are some of your favorite climbs are and where is your favorite place to camp. Any beta will help. ;)
Thank you,
Rich.

For cragging, I liked the Cerebrus area. Easy approach, good cracks.

I'll second Cerebrus area. Squeeze Play was my favorite route of the 9's and easy 10's there. I also recommend Ashtar Command on Ataxia Tower as a good into, 2 pitches of 5.9 with a 5 minute approach and it gets good afternoon shade.

Iron Messiah is a great route if you like chimneys..

KeithS wrote:Iron Messiah is a great route if you like chimneys..

Awesome! Thank you the feedback. I'll check those out.

Here are a few others in your grade range I recommend (means I like them better than average)....Headache and Iron Messiah are the two to start with....for the most part, they are the easiest and safest multi-pitch starter routes in Zion.

Most of these recommendations below are in the shade as that is for the most part what you will be seeking at this point in the year. Iron Messiah, despite facing southwest, will shade itself (corner) enough for you to get through it on a reasonable temp summer day. I prefer to only climb it in the fall, as the snow melt and spring precip (this is a water way) made me feel like a chimney sweep in the spring, but it has gotten popular enough that I would imagine it is relatively clean by May. Enjoy your trip.

Zion Free Climbs in Geographical Order

ACL Arete, 5.10, 10 Pitches
Take Back the Rainbow, 5.10, 8 Pitches
Cave Dweller, 5.10, 4 Pitches
Blood Sport, 5.10+, 3 Pitches
Kung Fu Fighter, 5.10+, 3 Pitches
Mortal Combat, 5.10, 3 Pitches
Shark Tooth Freighter, 5.10, 3 Pitches
InI, 5.10, 4 Pitches
UnU, 5.10, 4 Pitches
Out of Wax, 5.10, 2 Pitches
Cock Smasher, 5.10, 3 Pitches
Remnants of a Party, 5.10, 4 Pitches
Gypsy's Curse, 5.10+, 4 Pitches
Made to be Broken, 5.10, 5 Pitches
Riddler's Delight, 5.10, 6 Pitches
Chimney Sweep, 5.10, 7 Pitches
Voodoo Rooves, 5.10+, 5 Pitches
Great Beyond, 5.10, 8 Pitches
Cynthia's Hand Job, 5.10+, 2 Pitches
Cherry Crack, 5.10+, 2 Pitches
Right Toilet Crack, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

It's raining in the park now. Stay off the rock until it has had atleast 2 days to dry in the sun please! Sandstone weakens when wet. I know that this is your vacation, but it is both dangerous and destructive to climb when wet!

There is beautiful limestone nearby in St. George! Check out soul asylum and the diamond in the Utah hills!

Thank you very much Dow Williams! Sam, i wont be climbing until Wedsnesday, let me know if you think the rock should be waited longer.

+1 for Iron Massiah. Get good beta for the last pitch and the raps. It may not be obvious.

Hey Rich

If you climb in sunny routes the rock should be ok. Best way to tell is to check the sand at the bottom of the route. If you scratch the sand and it's wet then the rock is wet.

Right toilet bowl crack at temple of zinewava is a nice 5.9+ / 5.10 multip. With no approach

Hey speaking of Zion stuff, where are the best moderate aid routes for the month of JUNE? I;ve got a Malasian pal coming in who wants to do a wall and I'm not sure on the particular aspects that time of year. What about Touchstone?

Tony B wrote:Hey speaking of Zion stuff, where are the best moderate aid routes for the month of JUNE? I;ve got a Malasian pal coming in who wants to do a wall and I'm not sure on the particular aspects that time of year. What about Touchstone?

jackkelly00 wrote: Prodigal Sun goes into shade about noontime and is shaded for rest of day. Great route and can be done in a day.

Thanks for all the recommendations. I ended up climbing, The Headache, Ashtar Command, Iron messiah, Squeeze play, and Cynthia's Hand Job. Wow is all I can say. Such an amazing and beautiful place! Cheers all!

Thanks for all the recommendations. I ended up climbing, The Headache, Ashtar Command, Iron messiah, Squeeze play, and Cynthia's Hand Job. Wow is all I can say. Such an amazing and beautiful place! Cheers all!

Cool! Did I.M. get any sun this time of year? What hours?

Hey Tony,

Iron Messiah gets morning to afternoon sun, going into the shade rather late in the day....

However, the chimney pitches are mostly shaded. It's just the bottom pitches and the top pitches that get blasted by sun.