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Standard Clean Aid routes near Denver

Original Post
David Carey · · Morrison, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 120

Hello MP,

I am curious if anyone knows any "standard" clean aid routes in the Denver area (bolt ladders, traverses, etc)? It is not a searchable field for Which Route is Best for ME...I have a feeling most the stuff in the area is free and have not come across too much in my years climbing the area.

Obviously anyone can jump on any crack system and aid it, but I would like to find the "standard" aid routes where aid is the common way up because that sounds more appealing. Just looking to get more practice/faster with this stuff...

Also, if interested in doing them with me, let me know. I am an intro aid climber and just did my first C1 in Grand Junction and just liked it a lot and would like to get more into it (I climb about 5.10- on gear)

Cheers,
Dave

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Roof at Castle Rock
Practice Rock
If you add on a classic on a weekend, prepare for flames
I'd suggest staying out of Eldo, and just heading up to an obscure crack in Bocan or Clear Creek

David Carey · · Morrison, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 120

I had a feeling there weren't many options. I certainly will avoid Eldo...tough enough to just climb in that place with the crowds. I was hoping to hear some standard ascent via aid routes with bolts to set nuts on, etc. but there's no difference really after the gear is in the wall :)

Thanks!

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Bastille Crack, but it has to be on a Saturday morning with a 9am start.

Dirk Diggler · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 375

Lumpy has some good longer aid climbs. The Twin Owls are what comes to mind. Seconding what Wade said, there are lots of cracks in BoCan that go at C1/2.

Jake

Caleb · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 260

There are several routes in Eldo that are legit aid-only climbs, some go in the C grades andyou won't be on somebody's classic. Levin lists them in the back of the guidebook, Majic Roof might be good. Right now a lot of BoCan classics are getting aided because they are all seeping and full of slime. If you're looking for bolt ladders, just go to Clear Creak. S Platte has a lot of cool aid too. Lots more on Evans and in RMNP. Clean Aid is sort of a product of free climbing. Get some iron, move beyond the crag...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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