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Better Chalk?

Original Post
jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

The debate that i keep having with myself is loose chalk or chalk socks. I like that chalk socks make my chalk last longer, are cleaner, and you need them for that rare occasion that I go to the gym. But I feel like you can never get enough chalk out of them, so then i use loose chalk.

But what if there was a better way, say to use a more finely ground chalk like trangos gun powder chalk that will filter through the chalk sock more easily.

I have a bunch of chalk that i want to try to grind up really fine, I was thinking of using something like a coffee grinder or a wheat grinder, or do i just have a crappy chalk sock that i bought years ago?

Thoughts suggestions other ideas, anybody used trangos gun powder chalk?

Thank you for the help in advance

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

Bison chalk is great the finest I have touched. I put a light dusting in my bag before the gym and mix the ball with it. when I am oustide I dump a ton in.

Jeffrey L · · Hillsdale, NJ · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

Can agree with bison chalk being awesome. When I've put way too much in the bottom of my bag, I don't even realize my hand is in the chalk it just that fine. Also, the price of it is pretty good too.

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 462

I'll throw a third vote in for Bison. Just tried that brand for the first time a week ago and it's my favorite one yet.

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290

I use Edelweiss Liquid Chalk as a base layer and then Metolius Super Chalk in my my chalk bag. The liquid chalk is expensive ($12.95 retail), but since I just use it the first couple times before I climb the bottle lasts about 6 months.

The main reason I like it is that the palms of my hands and the sides of my hands are impossible to chalk while climbing. Places like Rifle require more of your hand on the rock (lots of pinches and slopers) vs somewhere that's crimpy like Shelf Rd that just involved more finger tips on the holds. So if I'm midroute and I put my hand in my chalk bag I can only get chalk on my finger tips which doesn't do shit for big slopers and pinches. Once I apply a few dime size applications of the liquid chalk my entire hand will stay dry the rest of the day.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
jarthur wrote:The main reason I like it is that the palms of my hands and the sides of my hands are impossible to chalk while climbing. Places like Rifle require more of your hand on the rock (lots of pinches and slopers) vs somewhere that's crimpy like Shelf Rd that just involved more finger tips on the holds. So if I'm midroute and I put my hand in my chalk bag I can only get chalk on my finger tips which doesn't do shit for big slopers and pinches.
Sounds like you need to buy a bigger chalk bag. Despite my small hands, I have a really big chalk bag and keep a lot of chalk in it. Easy to coat the whole hand.

And yes, liquid chalk is super useful.
jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

well i tried just grinding up a chalk block, i will try to get out this weekend to let you know how that goes, if that doesn't work I will have to try bison chalk when my current supply runs out, it seams pretty cheap.

Also, thanks for the advice about the liquid chalk, where i normally climb is mostly crimps and and pockets i don't normally need any chalk on the sides of my hands. But i want to start getting out to other areas that have more variety so i might need something like that soon.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Friction Labs chalk. Expensive but better.

Joshua Hunt · · clinton, ut · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

I can't stand the fine stuff. I picked up two bottles of the gun powder on sale and ended up giving the second away. My favorite so far is camp's chunky chalk, loose in my organic bag.

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290
Mark E Dixon wrote:Friction Labs chalk. Expensive but better.
Are people really willing to spend 2.5x the amount of money for Friction Labs chalk? Maybe, but I'd like to hear from those same people a year from now and see if they are still spending that much money on chalk.

Friction Labs - Please note: Other than a one time purchase you have to sign up for a monthly subscription for this chalk frictionlabs.com
2.5 oz = $8.00 = $3.20/oz
5.0 oz = $12.00 = $2.40/oz
7.5 oz = $14.00 = $1.87/oz

Bison
4 oz = $6.00 = $1.50/oz
16 oz = $13.00 = $0.81/oz

Metolius Super Chalk
15 oz = $11.95 = $0.80/oz

My intent isn't to call BS on Friction Labs, but to start a conversation as to whether, or not this is the next big thing compared to sticky rubber, or is this just snake oil? (I've yet to try it, but I do have my samples on the way...@ $8.00 for 3 oz)
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I've always found all chalk to be about the same. However, the FL people had a bunch of samples out at the Spot and I gradually found myself walking across the gym to chalk up using their stuff rather than the Endo block in my bag. Been using it outside and I still think it's better. Whether it's worth the extra cost, time will tell. There's a deal at Seth and Neely's site if you want to try it for a few dollars less.
trainingbeta.com/frictionla…

I am using the unicorn dust, their finest and don't like the relative absence of chunks when I am ticking holds. But the coarser versions didn't suit me. I find the chunks are really hard to break up, esp the bigger ones. But my experience with the other blends is pretty much that one session at the Spot.
Could all be placebo effect, but I went into it expecting just the same old same old and got surprised.

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

If there claim of a significantly higher purity of magnesium carbonate is true then you could use less to get your hands dry. Using less chalk would help extend the life of the chalk supply. But something i do find suspicious is that if you read the research article they never analyze friction labs chalk. So i may not really be that much better.

I would be curious to see if you thought the samples were better then normal chalk, but in the end i doubt i will pay the money for such expensive chalk.

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Instead of finer chalk have you thought about making a looser chalk sock? They're just knit fabric (if you don't know what that is just go to your local fabric store and they should have plenty of it in one area), sew it in a loop, and then tie the ends closed with some cord. Just find some fabric that is a looser knit than your current sock. (you can use woven fabric, but then you would want to hem the edges so they don't fray)

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

Brady3, I have, and i have thought about trying the panty hose chalk sock idea, but it seems rather inconvenient, but you are right sowing a chalk sock would not be very difficult and could be a good solution.

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140
jarthur wrote: Are people really willing to spend 2.5x the amount of money for Friction Labs chalk? Maybe, but I'd like to hear from those same people a year from now and see if they are still spending that much money on chalk. Friction Labs - Please note: Other than a one time purchase you have to sign up for a monthly subscription for this chalk frictionlabs.com 2.5 oz = $8.00 = $3.20/oz 5.0 oz = $12.00 = $2.40/oz 7.5 oz = $14.00 = $1.87/oz Bison 4 oz = $6.00 = $1.50/oz 16 oz = $13.00 = $0.81/oz Metolius Super Chalk 15 oz = $11.95 = $0.80/oz My intent isn't to call BS on Friction Labs, but to start a conversation as to whether, or not this is the next big thing compared to sticky rubber, or is this just snake oil? (I've yet to try it, but I do have my samples on the way...@ $8.00 for 3 oz)
Had the same thought. Bought it and it is far superior IMO. Too expensive to use on the regular but if you were projecting and close to sending. You could keep a seperate bag of the Dank for the Burns where you felt it was going to go down. I like the Unicorn Dust myself. I use BD white Gold for everyday climbing. I use to swear by superchalk but got a few off batches and never went back.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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