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Routes in Gemstone West
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Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Markingstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sinsemilla Shake 5.11d, R T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Gary Hicks, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,068 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Oct 25, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Seamingly Hard is the often-admired-but-less-often-climbed slab left of Gemstone, and is a nice sustained thin face climb.
It seams a little close to easy ground to the left at the beginning, but soon the quality of the moves makes up for that, as you follow a left-trending seam, passing 5(?) bolts. It's always a relief to get to the next bolt, the headiest part is a 20' runout at about the level of the Gemstone pitch 1 anchor. The crux is pulling a small roof after you clip the bolt after the runout. Next you'll join another left trending seam, passing a fixed pin, then the cracks widen and the climbing is noticeably easier. Find the Gemstone anchor.
*Bring gear for the 2nd half! It's not a fully bolted sport climb.
*It is possible to belay at the pitch 1 bolted belay for Gemstone, but linking these into a 200' pitch is more fun, and means no potential to fall on the belay at the start of what would be the 2nd pitch. The rope drag wasn't bad.
*There are more bolts than shown in the guidebook, but you'll probably be glad they are there.
*This will feel hard for the grade if you're not used to 5.10 slab. There aren't many like this in the Sandias, so it's hard to compare. If you feel good on this route, you're ready for Questa Dome and The Tooth and stuff like that.
*This might be worth calling PG13 because it's a bit spacey between the bolts (especially compared to sport climbing areas), but it's not too scary by slab standards. I think the only really dangerous place would be if you fell right before the 2nd bolt. Don't do that.
It seams a little close to easy ground to the left at the beginning, but soon the quality of the moves makes up for that, as you follow a left-trending seam, passing 5(?) bolts. It's always a relief to get to the next bolt, the headiest part is a 20' runout at about the level of the Gemstone pitch 1 anchor. The crux is pulling a small roof after you clip the bolt after the runout. Next you'll join another left trending seam, passing a fixed pin, then the cracks widen and the climbing is noticeably easier. Find the Gemstone anchor.
*Bring gear for the 2nd half! It's not a fully bolted sport climb.
*It is possible to belay at the pitch 1 bolted belay for Gemstone, but linking these into a 200' pitch is more fun, and means no potential to fall on the belay at the start of what would be the 2nd pitch. The rope drag wasn't bad.
*There are more bolts than shown in the guidebook, but you'll probably be glad they are there.
*This will feel hard for the grade if you're not used to 5.10 slab. There aren't many like this in the Sandias, so it's hard to compare. If you feel good on this route, you're ready for Questa Dome and The Tooth and stuff like that.
*This might be worth calling PG13 because it's a bit spacey between the bolts (especially compared to sport climbing areas), but it's not too scary by slab standards. I think the only really dangerous place would be if you fell right before the 2nd bolt. Don't do that.
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