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Third flatiron in May?

Original Post
stevehollx · · charlotte, nc · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

Visiting the area for vacation this week.

I've seen conflicting information on whether the third flatiron is open during this time of the year. I've seen that is exempt from raptor closures, but other places state it is closed for raptor nesting until the summer. Anyone able to say for sure what status is for climbing the third in May? If it is closed, what are recommended alternatives? Something in the easy (5.4) multi pitch category, ideally.

Also, Is anything feasible in the middle of next week with the amount of rain? How quick does the rock dry out, out here?

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

The Access Fund's site usually has good info on closures. You can also call the Chautauqua Ranger office and hear directly from the horse's mouth.

Other options would be the north arete of the First, or any of several dozen climbs in Gerry Roach's Flatiron Classics. Others may also show up on MP.

The rock will dry really fast: all it needs is a very few hours of sun and a little bit of wind. Doesn't mean there may not be little pools in some of the hueco-like holds, but 99.7% of the surface will be climbably dry.

Enjoy your vaykay!

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

The 3rd flatiron is closed every year from Feb through July, will reopen Aug. 1.

bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl…

You can check out other closures for raptors, bats, etc. on the website.

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

I have also been wondering about this I know the closure dates but I see people on MP posting about how there gonna solo it all the time during the off season..are we being selfish and reckless?

stevehollx · · charlotte, nc · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

So the OSMP site says that the third is closed, but doesn't mention the first. So it looks like the first is fair game still?

Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

Here is a list I did on SP that may help...

summitpost.org/classic-flat…

It is the "Classic" routes from the Roach guide and I marked the seasonal closures. Stuff changes so checking the OSMP website is always a good idea.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
EeT wrote:I have also been wondering about this I know the closure dates but I see people on MP posting about how there gonna solo it all the time during the off season..are we being selfish and reckless?
I believe you are mistaken about the existence of these posts, and inadvertently slandering the local community. Care to cite a few of them?

The routes commonly climbed on the 3rd are in clear view from all of Chautauqua. Closure violations aren't likely to go unnoticed.

@ the OP- the 3rd will sometimes open early if the birdies have fledged, but I can't recall it ever happening before July.

The N ridge of the 1st is a great route at the grade you are seeking. Approach by doing the 1st Flatironette, then the Spy then the N ridge and you'll have a great day.

The rock seems impervious to moisture, so no need to let it dry out a la Red Rocks. Licheny spots can be slippery when wet. Since protection is generally sparse on easier Flatiron routes, wet rock can add a lot of excitement.
Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101
Mark E Dixon wrote:The rock seems impervious to moisture, so no need to let it dry out a la Red Rocks.
What the f*#k are you talking about???
Are you including the small flakes and edges in your assessment??
While *most* of Boulder's sandstone is stronger/less porous than most other sandstones, that's still a pretty damn stupid thing to tell someone.

I'm hoping my snark meter is just off today....
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
BDergay wrote: What the f*#k are you talking about??? Are you including the small flakes and edges in your assessment?? While *most* of Boulder's sandstone is stronger/less porous than most other sandstones, that's still a pretty damn stupid thing to tell someone. I'm hoping my snark meter is just off today....
Really?

The cracks are permeable but the stone itself doesn't absorb much as far as I know, unklike the porous sandstoen of Red Rocks, etc. Do you really not climb in the Faltirons and Eldo if it's wet?
Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101

Sand stone is weaker after getting wet. PERIOD.

Now, one can argue that that Boulder's sandstone is a bit more compact and therefore less likely to be impacted. But- there are still PLENTY of holds that are porous. As I mentioned- exposed flakes might have softer rock- smaller edges will be weakened.

And for you two to be telling a tourist that sandstone is fine after the rain, and with such proof as "seems impervious to moisture" and "as far as I know" and of course "never worried about a hold breaking and it's been damn wet".. wtf?!

I can't believe we're sitting here debating whether sandstone is impacted by moisture.... and, as mentioned, telling someone not familiar with sandstone that it's okay....

For the idiots out there

chris schulte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 280

Yeah, while there is very solid stone in the Flatirons, and it is not like Red Rock or Indian Creek, you wanna let All Rock dry out before climbing on it. Water gets behind the flakes and so on. Sure, the Flatirons "Fountain Sandstone (?)" dries Fast.. But don't climb on stuff when it's wet. Or when it's closed. There is a college here, and those selfies someone was mentioning could just be via the ignorant and uninitiated.
Anyhoo... Even granite can break when it's damp.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
chris schulte wrote: Even granite can break when it's damp.
So are you saying one shouldn't climb on any wet rock period?
Cocoapuffs 1000 · · Columbus, OH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 50
BDergay wrote:Sand stone is weaker after getting wet. PERIOD. Now, one can argue that that Boulder's sandstone is a bit more compact and therefore less likely to be impacted. But- there are still PLENTY of holds that are porous. As I mentioned- exposed flakes might have softer rock- smaller edges will be weakened. And for you two to be telling a tourist that sandstone is fine after the rain, and with such proof as "seems impervious to moisture" and "as far as I know" and of course "never worried about a hold breaking and it's been damn wet".. wtf?! I can't believe we're sitting here debating whether sandstone is impacted by moisture.... and, as mentioned, telling someone not familiar with sandstone that it's okay....
You should climb on east coast sandstone before you act like you are an expert on rock strength. You can climb at the Red and New (both sand stone) all day in the wet, and this is accepted practice.
Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101
John Tex wrote:you can watch me on an east face if you want. I'll be going solo.
Dude Bra!! You're Sick!!! Haha... Watch out everyone! We've got a 5.4 hardman! You should go do the North Ridge of the 5th- since there's nothing breakable out there!

Cocoapuffs 1000 wrote:You should climb on east coast sandstone before..
Great point! Of course sandstone back east is quite different than sandstone out here, and of course we were discussing Boulder sandstone... but great point, for a different debate, in a different thread, somewhere else.......
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Steve, I hope you enjoyed climbing this week and didn't let Bdergay and Chris discourage you.

Bdergay and Chris, you should check out this thread and offer your contrary opinion.
mountainproject.com/v/thesi…

Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101

Steve, I hope John and Marks' advice, regarding not worrying about wet area sandstone, didn't send you to the hospital.

And Mark, my contrary opinion has been offered over there. I eagerly await your rebuttal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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