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First big wall

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Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

My friend and i are gathering gear to do some big wall climbs this upcomming fall! We are wondering what all gear we would need? # of cams and things like that. Thanks!!

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Where are you climbing a big wall?

If it's in Yosemite, the main guidebooks give a pretty good rack suggestion for each route. Rule of thumb: Bring way too many small cams.

In terms of general gear, you'll need a haul device (I love the micro trax - have hauled 8 person*days worth of gear with it), a gri gri for each, two aiders and daisies each, two ascenders each, a haul line (static is worth its weight in gold), a pig or two, something to poop in, whiskey, and the willingness to suffer. If your first route has a good bivy ledge (SFWC, WFLT), skip the portaledge. A double shoulder sling for the rack is clutch (I love my Misty Big Wall Gear Sling).

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Yes we were thinking yosemite! Thanks for the tips! Do we need any offset cams ? Generally speaking. Also what the heck is a pig hahaha sorry im unfamiliar with that lingo

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Also how much water would you reccomend each day per person?

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Brennanlytle wrote:Also how much water would you reccomend each day per person?
pig=haul bag.

as for water, depends on season/temp
Yosemite summer, probably minimum 3-4 liters /person /day.
jacob sidorin · · Loveland · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 375

They call it a pig, cus about same weight as an adult pig.

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Ahhh i see i see!! Thank you so much! This was very helpful

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70
Brennanlytle wrote:Yes we were thinking yosemite! Thanks for the tips! Do we need any offset cams ? Generally speaking. Also what the heck is a pig hahaha sorry im unfamiliar with that lingo
You don't "need" offset cams, but good god they are helpful. I would have at least one set. I have a set of mastercams from purple/blue through yellow/orange and a set of aliens from blue/green through yellow/gray. Both sets come with me every time.

You'll also want at least a minimum number of hooks (a grappling hook and a cliffhanger) and a pair of medium camhooks. A range of offset nuts is also nice to have, though I use them less and less these days.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Look at the Supertopo "how to bigwall" posts and consider buying the book. It's a great start and has most of the information you are looking for. I personally think the book is lacking a lot of information, but in reality, there is nothing better out there that I've seen.

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

I will! Thanks

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

climb with these guys. you'll learn all you need to know.

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Brennanlytle wrote:My friend and i are gathering gear to do some big wall climbs this upcomming fall! We are wondering what all gear we would need? # of cams and things like that. Thanks!!
as far gear needs, there are 2 main guidebooks for Yosemite bigwalls. There's a supertopo book. And then another one that was released last years. I can't speak to the new one, but the Supertopo book has a recommended rack for every climb. I would probably start there and then read a bunch of trip reports and see if you glean anything about what gear to bring from there.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Stagg54 wrote: as far gear needs, there are 2 main guidebooks for Yosemite bigwalls. There's a supertopo book. And then another one that was released last years. I can't speak to the new one, but the Supertopo book has a recommended rack for every climb. I would probably start there and then read a bunch of trip reports and see if you glean anything about what gear to bring from there.
The new one (Yosemite Bigwalls) is awesome and at $10 for the E-book (yosemitebigwalls.com), it is one hell of a bargain. If you are at all serious about doing a bigwall in the Valley, I highly recommend the book. Truthfully, I find owning both guidebooks valuable.
Nick Mattson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

I recommend Chris McNameras Big wall book. A buddy and I read it and practiced hauling/leading on a single pitch, 4 days later we rented a ledge and did Moonlight buttress in zion! Couldn't have done it without chris

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
csproul wrote: The new one (Yosemite Bigwalls) is awesome and at $10 for the E-book (yosemitebigwalls.com), it is one hell of a bargain. If you are at all serious about doing a bigwall in the Valley, I highly recommend the book. Truthfully, I find owning both guidebooks valuable.
I looked at the new one and it seemed to have a lot more depth of routes, and plenty of detail for each route, but not quite as detailed as the Supertopo. If you are sticking to the classics, I think the supertopo is probably a little better. it has some "better" info on strategy as far as where to haul, where to bivy, etc. that is probably invaluable especially to a beginner. Although you probably can't go wrong with either.
Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Nick Mattson wrote:I recommend Chris McNameras Big wall book. A buddy and I read it and practiced hauling/leading on a single pitch, 4 days later we rented a ledge and did Moonlight buttress in zion! Couldn't have done it without chris
I also think the Chris Mac book is great. another good one is the Jared Ogden book (Mountaineers Red series). Both are awesome. There's also the John Long Big walls book which is also good, but a little dated. Another good reference is the Hans Florine speed climbing book. A lot of his practices are not necessarily recommended for beginners, but at least it will get you thinking.
Arlo F Niederer · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 515

I agree with Stagg - the McNamara Big Wall book is better for new big wall climbers than the new Yosemite Big Walls by Eric Sloan. Perhaps you should also purchase his instructional book on big wall climbing, too. He posts a few of the chapters on supertopo.com - very informative.

I just purchased the new Eric Sloan Yosemite Big Wall book last week. It is very similar to the old Don Reid Yosemite guides. Eric is trying to fill the need of getting more up to date topos of as many Yosemite Big Walls as possible. There isn't much information other than the topo on most routes.

McNamara's book (Eric Sloan is a co-author, by the way) offers ideas on strategy, retreat, etc. The new Yosemite Big Wall book doesn't.

The key to success on a big wall is not ability - it is efficiency, logistics, and composure. I think the failure rate is well over 60% - mainly because of the three items I just listed. I've failed a few times myself...

McNamara makes a huge point about efficiency, and in his "road to the nose" advice advocates a pretty intense practice schedule to succeed on the nose. His whole regime concentrates on efficiency and logistics. And having things dialed will help with your composure.

You don't have to go to Yosemite to practice these things. You can buy hooks and practice around your local area. You can setup belays and practice making them clean and efficient. Set up a hauling system and practice that.

The benefit of practicing is that you can fine tune you techniques and acquire or modify gear to make it work exactly the way you want. And to make wise choices in what gear you can improvise with - and which specialized gear you should buy. And, you can spend most of your time in Yosemite climbing instead of learning.

Good luck. There is no greater feeling than pulling over the rim of a big wall and clipping the summit anchors.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Arlo F Niederer wrote: The key to success on a big wall is not ability - it is efficiency, logistics, and composure. I think the failure rate is well over 60% - mainly because of the three items I just listed.
I'm 4 for 7 on 100 mile races, but 1 for 6 on big walls...
Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
Christopher Gibson wrote:Game On.
So you have zero wall experience but are going to climb one of the harder and more obscure aid lines on El Cap? I assume you've been forthright with Steve about your level of experience?

Not trying to hate but holy shit man, you've got your work cut out for you. If you thought Dark Shadows was an adventure... I hope you are training at this very moment. No matter what happens make up a TR and let us know how it went. Godspeed!
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Stagg54 wrote: I looked at the new one and it seemed to have a lot more depth of routes, and plenty of detail for each route, but not quite as detailed as the Supertopo. If you are sticking to the classics, I think the supertopo is probably a little better. it has some "better" info on strategy as far as where to haul, where to bivy, etc. that is probably invaluable especially to a beginner. Although you probably can't go wrong with either.
I think that for $10 it is fully worth it buy both. I have been using both books and cross referencing them with the Supertopo website and the Yosemitebigwalls website. When you factor in the costs of preparing for and doing bigwalls, an extra $10 guidebook is nothing. Especially considering that I have found subtle differences between the two and having both topos has proven valuable. The yosemitebigwalls website also has very good strategy info. It's a small price to pay for bettering your odds via better logistical planning. Plus you can always drool over the other routes that you'll do in the future!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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