Epic Rescue

Kent Richards wrote: I'd imagine that the broken spine would be tender or painful to the touch and fail a focused spine assessment... Did they do one? Point being, "spine injury" is injury to the spine. If the leader landed on the belayer from 4 bolts up and the belayer's spine was tender / painful, I'd call that a pretty apparent spine injury.

For sure protocol wasn't followed. One climber was EMT / Wilderness First Aider, and thus we all diverted to his expertise. I've only completed the high angle rescue course. Unfortunately, he performed below expectations. I tell the tale, as warning to others.... don't be fools like we we're!!!. Lucky that no one was crippled as a result... Another incident at Hueco, girl had a hairline fracture to her heel... We had two WFAR that time... "just walk it off" was the advice given. I almost have a negative opinion of anyone with WFAR training now... but only due to these isolated personal experiences.

I agree with Medic, in that when it comes to spinal injuries, most of us are ill equipped to conduct a proper rescue. SAR is a better option. Self rescues is commendable, but knowing when to divert to others is paramount.

There are all sorts of degrees of injury that can occur to the spine. Many are not apparent from pain or even initial medical imagining. Some might be present for months before diagnosis.

The notion that a field test can accurately determine low degree spinal damage is a joke. Lets not star judging with hind sight and a dozen x-rays.

Christopher Gibson wrote:... the route turns the small roof to the right then goes up some easy ledges out of sight of belayer before the pitch ten anchors leader took a fall that had the last placement pop that ended with him on one of the ledges.

Not to belabor the point, but for other people reading this...

Whenever leading just above the ground, ledge or other hazard, put in (if you can) two or more pieces to prevent hitting the hazard below you.

Similarly, sometimes you just gotta go on pumpy routes, taking a long run-out. When you finally get to a good hold/stance (or just can't keep going) put in two pieces.

The OP and his partners did a fantastic job working through the challenges and difficulties they encountered. They kept their composure and made solid well thought-out decisions.

I posted some thoughts on spinal injuries in the Injuries and Accidents forum for anyone who might be interested in continuing that discussion.

Cheers!