Cornflake Crack
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 66 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | FFA: Hot Henry Barber, 1976 FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway 1972 |
Page Views: | 19,196 total · 90/month |
Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.
Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.
P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.
P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'
P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.
Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.
P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.
P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'
P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.
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