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Crampons on Pete's Farewell

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Sorry Greenezo but climbing established rock routes (and I think a route first climbed in 1958 that gets hundreds if not thousands of ascents each summer doesn't need "established" in quotes) is not the future of anything except being a dumbass.

Once again people are mixing up style with ethics. Crampons scratching the hell out of a moderate classic isn't a style issue, it's an ethical one. What you're doing affects everyone who come after you and, in my opinion, the results look like shit. Nick says it's like bolting a crack climb, but I'd equate it more towards going to a popular crack and protecting it with pitons, a lame move guaranteed to change the route for the worse.

Just curious, have you actually been up there this spring and seen the damage?

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I feel that establishing a dry tooling climb on rock that has no significant ice is lame and akin to bolting a crack climb. Dry tooling an established rock climb is being a dumb ass punk. Nothing more than vandalism thinking you are cool.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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