Building a climbing truck

I've thought of the effects on the environment of the solar plants, and have thought of the physics involved in mounting it on the truck. However, I have a solar kit, and plan on keeping it that way, no need for argument, that's not the cause for this thread. I'm just looking for help on the project. Not controversy over an unimportant feature of my kit that doesn't pertain directly to the thread.

Luc Ried wrote:I've thought of the effects on the environment of the solar plants, and have thought of the physics involved in mounting it on the truck. However, I have a solar kit, and plan on keeping it that way, no need for argument, that's not the cause for this thread. I'm just looking for help on the project. Not controversy over an unimportant feature of my kit that doesn't pertain directly to the thread.

Most build a platform across the back of the truck and add a drawer on the bottom that rolls out. One guy added a drawer that rolls out that had legs that popped out to allow it to stand up so he could cook on it. That was really cool. I would keep it simple. Two large platforms on the bottom of the bed that roll out for easy access to your stuff, and one in the middle for you to sleep on. You can put your stuff in plastic containers from Wal-Mart, which are cheap and much easier than building some complex cabinet system. For the height of the sleeping platform, sit straight up on a chair, have someone measure the distance from your head to the chair seat, and use that as a guide for how high to mount your sleeping platform.

Thank you. The roller drawer with legs has been an idea I've entertained

Ha im a bleeding environmentalist and for better or worse 20kn is completely accurate wrt solar chargers. ~150 watts max of solar does nothing for a double group 24 bank except for perhaps some trickle charging to maintain optimal float levels. Just get a charging relay off your alternator for your house bank and an emergency cross connect system for when you accidentally kill your starting battery. This should provide ample capacity for lights, laptops and maybeee a small fridge.

Yet again. Not a thread meant to debate solar environmental implications

truck bed

2x10 framing with 5/8" AC ply sheet and drawers. Plywood is finished with 2 coats of Polycrylic. Deck screws. 36" drawers on 24" heavy duty sliders (home depot), cabinet hatches ahead of the drawers for more storage. I found 1/2" foam 'gym floor' padding to go over the plywood (about $20 at the local sporting goods store). I found some 'hockey puck' style LED lights that stick to the inside of the cap carpet with velcro (about $10 each). An adjustable shower curtain rod is the drying rack.

I would suggest building your platform right over the wheel wells. It makes sleeping less claustrophobic, and you can actually sit up and read inside when you're trying to stay out of the weather.

TBlom wrote: . I would suggest building your platform right over the wheel wells. It makes sleeping less claustrophobic, and you can actually sit up and read inside when you're trying to stay out of the weather.

I've been wondering if a wheel well height platform would be tall enough to accompany all of my climbing gear and camping gear underneath. Would it? Do you have any spacial issues in the drawers, suck as something not fitting? I plan on making mine 48" deep, would that be overkill? Thank you for the picture, love the simplicity and function, everything is really cleanly built, it looks sweet

It depends on how long your living out of your truck...wheel well height, 48" deep by 50+" inches wide isn't really that much room if your spending an extended amount of time. I live out of my truck more or less and everything I own fits in those two storage drawers underneath the bed. And by everything I mean all my winter gear, summer gear, clothing, stove, fuel, water jugs, etc. Means my sleeping area is always open and I never need to shift around anything when I want to go to sleep. If your using it for 2 week road trips here and there, sure that's gonna be enough. But extended periods of time, I think you'll find you're gonna use up that space pretty quick...

A few thoughts that I don't think others have mentioned:

- For weight and especially space, don't use 2x's. 1x10's or 1x12 is plenty of support, with a little bit of design. (look at my cross beam seperating the compartments, that's one way to keep everything sturdy) I wouldn't use pressure treated wood, mainly because it'll smell for a while. I didn't use poly either and have had my setup for 2.5yrs without any problems

- Take a few items of fixed/known height and start your design around those. (i.e. water jug, house battery box, coleman stove) Make em fit tight. Make everything fit fairly tight so everything's not all flopping around and breaking your few beers that might not be PBR. Take your time and think about the little things. Can you stack 2 cans of beans? Does a beer bottle fit upright?

- I don't think it's necessary to use bearing type drawer slides. They take up space and make you have to worry about counterweighting your rig. I used UMHW plastic (delrin, or anything smooth and slippery) as slides under my slide out drawers.

- My truck is a short bed (5'4", I have to sleep diagonally). If you can stay lean, organized and tetris things like a mofo you can get away with 10-12" height and have enough room. Compromise between how much you want to be able to sit and how much stuff you want to be able to carry.

- I'll 2nd that you probably don't really need solar. I used a house battery setup with an isolator and it was a nice convenience. Get some of these lights goo.gl/z66Azb if you cook on a tailgate --uses no energy and it'll be like cooking in an operating room.

This is my setup: imgur.com/a/lyF9d

KeithS wrote:It depends on how long your living out of your truck...wheel well height, 48" deep by 50+" inches wide isn't really that much room if your spending an extended amount of time. I live out of my truck more or less and everything I own fits in those two storage drawers underneath the bed. And by everything I mean all my winter gear, summer gear, clothing, stove, fuel, water jugs, etc. Means my sleeping area is always open and I never need to shift around anything when I want to go to sleep. If your using it for 2 week road trips here and there, sure that's gonna be enough. But extended periods of time, I think you'll find you're gonna use up that space pretty quick...

For the next couple years I'll only be in it for a couple weeks at a time, then will live out of it for a year or so at a time

Tim Fry wrote:A few thoughts that I don't think others have mentioned: - For weight and especially space, don't use 2x's. 1x10's or 1x12 is plenty of support, with a little bit of design. (look at my cross beam seperating the compartments, that's one way to keep everything sturdy) I wouldn't use pressure treated wood, mainly because it'll smell for a while. I didn't use poly either and have had my setup for 2.5yrs without any problems - Take a few items of fixed/known height and start your design around those. (i.e. water jug, house battery box, coleman stove) Make em fit tight. Make everything fit fairly tight so everything's not all flopping around and breaking your few beers that might not be PBR. Take your time and think about the little things. Can you stack 2 cans of beans? Does a beer bottle fit upright? - I don't think it's necessary to use bearing type drawer slides. They take up space and make you have to worry about counterweighting your rig. I used UMHW plastic (delrin, or anything smooth and slippery) as slides under my slide out drawers. - My truck is a short bed (5'4", I have to sleep diagonally). If you can stay lean, organized and tetris things like a mofo you can get away with 10-12" height and have enough room. Compromise between how much you want to be able to sit and how much stuff you want to be able to carry. - I'll 2nd that you probably don't really need solar. I used a house battery setup with an isolator and it was a nice convenience. Get some of these lights goo.gl/z66Azb if you cook on a tailgate --uses no energy and it'll be like cooking in an operating room. This is my setup: imgur.com/a/lyF9d

Hadn't thought of 1x10s. Thank you. I've been pondering a good drawer sliding method because I dont like the bearings and that seems solid. I understand I probably dont need solar, however I have a pro deal through goal zero so its actually cheaper for me this way. Love the simple design of your set up, ill definitely be using 1x instead now. And I've planned on staring my design around my water jug, an area I'll insulate possibly unless told otherwise. Those lights look really simple, and nice to have for cooking on the tailgate! Thank you!

Luc,

Ride on. If you have a deal on solar, get after it.

With my setup, I don't have freezing problems until you get nighttime temps below ~20F. Since everything under the truck is insulated-ish by the mattress and by the truck bed/tailgate, you end up with sort of the average between the daytime and nighttime temps. Good to keep in mind with your perishable foods, too.

One other idea to think about: This is how my water jug/kitchen works: i.imgur.com/mPECG4h.jpg

Looks a little tippy, I'll admit, but in 2x daily use it's never fallen over on me. My tailgate has a small lip that sort of keeps everything in place, but you could use a little locking mechanism like this if you were really worried. goo.gl/SnyJeU

Luc Ried wrote: Hadn't thought of 1x10s. Thank you. I've been pondering a good drawer sliding method because I dont like the bearings and that seems solid. I understand I probably dont need solar, however I have a pro deal through goal zero so its actually cheaper for me this way. Love the simple design of your set up, ill definitely be using 1x instead now. And I've planned on staring my design around my water jug, an area I'll insulate possibly unless told otherwise. Those lights look really simple, and nice to have for cooking on the tailgate! Thank you!

Even if you have a pro deal through Goal Zero, it's still quite possible it's cheaper and better to use another product. Goal Zero is extraordinarily overpriced and they cut corners quite a bit resulting in a really cheap but highly profitable product.

For example, the Boulder 30W panel is $250 MSRP, which is probably right around $144 dealer cost/ pro deal excluding shipping. You can get a 50W mono solar panel from one of the largest solar panel manufacturers in the world (Renogy) for $79 including shipping.... renogy-store.com/Renogy-50W…

You can even get their 100W panel at full MSRP for less than Goal Zero's 30W panel at pro deal.

Then if we look at their Yeti 400, which is $460 MSRP and probably around $276 dealer cost/ pro deal, excluding shipping. Well, you can get a nearly identical battery and charge controller on Amazon for $100 total..... amazon.com/gp/product/B00II…

So something to keep in mind. I have used Goal Zero products a lot, and I have had a ton of problems with them (went through three Yeti 400s in 45 days), and absolutely zero problems with any of the other products I listed.

Hey man, I've got what I've got, and I'm not going to try to argue, because its a difference of opinions. Tim, thank you for the ideas, those legs seem lightweight and a nice possible addition to multiple things including your setup. Ride on, man

My plans are to use 2x12s with holes for weight, plastic sliders for the drawers, simplistic design, memory foam mattress pad for a bed, an LED light strip, build everything in relation to my water jug, have 2 drawers, a water jug cabinet, and some small cubbys. I thank everyone for their positive vibes, ideas, pictures, and opinions. I'll post pictures of the finished product in a couple weeks.

Too lazy to go out to the car to take a picture but..... If you have a camper shell that is tall you can copy my very simple design - I've lived on and off in that camper shell since 2003.

Place 2x4s horizontally across the width of the inside of camper shell, cut so that they rest on the bottom lip of the camper shell (at the height of the top of the sides of the truck bed) I have 5 of these going across (plenty to handle the weight of two people). Cut some plywood or lighter weight wooden sheet to fit the entire horizontal area - will need to be two pieces so you can get it in. Put some screws through the plywood and into the 2x4s to keep the 2x4s in place. Done.

With a tall camper shell and a bed that isn't too thick you will have enough room for basic sex positions - I'd recommend "the elephant".

If you're serious about your dirtbagging, go to a foam wholesaler and by a sheet of foam for a bed. I bought some high end stuff - $150, but way nicer than the beds most people sleep on, really. You could probably buy cheaper stuff for $80. They can custom cut it for you - find a full size futon cover to protect your foam. My toyota hilux bed is just slightly less wide than a normal full size bed - so you can use regular sheets. I hate sleeping in a sleeping bag (outdoor instructor since 2002) so I have synthetic comforters on my bed - you will eventually get a little wet here and there in the rain but they are fine since they're synthetic fill. Two comforters, regular pillows, a puffy jacket, a hat, some fleece pants, and the extra body heat from a girlfriend and you will be toasty in there in a blizzard. When the weather's nice and I have a wilderness camping spot I just pull the foam mattress out and throw it on a tarp and sleep outside like that.

Don't bother with wooden drawers - lots of weight/extra work. With the platform at this height you can buy large plastic bins at walmart that will fit underneath. You lose some space between the bins but it's super easy to pull them out when you want to organize your stuff or get to things all the way in the back - and your stuff is water/dust proofed. Stack two bins and place a cutting board on top and you have a kitchen table. You can also easily fit a cooler and water jug under the bed platform. I usually cook on my tailgate and I used to fantasize about building a stove right into the tailgate - but it was never really worth the effort.

I've gotta agree that the solar panel is unneccessary - buy an inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter and charge your stuff while your driving - I got one at walmart for $40, have had it for 10 years.

Enjoy your freedom!

P.S. Tint your windows or make some curtains.

Looked at that website that someone posted a link for - holy crap is that guys setup complicated, plus all of the moving stuff - terrible idea.

My design you open the window of the camper shell, step on the bumper to get in, and go to sleep.

I'm looking at buying a truck but (tacoma, 4-cyl, manuel, access cab, short bed) and I'm interested if there is anyone else out there with short bed who sleeps in their truck? I don't really need/want a long bed for everyday driving. Could you sleep 2 people in a short bed (50+ inches)?

You'd have to sleep diagonal, but where there is a will, there's a way. I wont be super comfortable. What about a standard bed? Not a long bed or short. Mine is the standard on a Silverado and its 6.5'.

20kn is right again wrt goalzero. Theyre a good example that crap fancy looking packaging and good marketing can overcome all product related deficiencies.