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Sasha on the news

ryan012 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 225
J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50
DavisMeschke wrote:I know she can climb harder than I. I don't climb overhung 5.14 because it doesn't appeal to me and I couldn't if I tried. What's "fucked" is the fact that sport climbing is taking precedent over the more commiting and extreme things being done in climbing. Anyone can pre-clip and pre-rehearse a climb and then climb it on camera. Anyone can learn how to tie a figure 8 and climb bright plastic holds at any level. But please tell me how great she is cause she's a world champion at pulling on small resin holds.
You can't climb 5.14 because you are a beginner climber who sucks and doesn't understand climbing yet.

DavisMeschke wrote:I'm not jealous, only saddened. Regardless of what I can (or can't) climb doesn't bar me from expressing my opinion. Since the myriad of wise men have promptly dismissed my opinion because of whether I can climb a certain letter grade, I secede. I still think that climbing has changed for the worse. But since everyone else, in their infinite wisdom, seem to think the opposite, I guess you're right. If you're the sheep I believe you to be, you'll gladly let others think for you. Cheers
You are jealous of a 90 pound girl and are lashing out at an entire group of people to make yourself feel better, this is churlish behavior. I know this because I specialize in it.

DavisMeschke wrote:I'm not jealous, only saddened. Regardless of what I can (or can't) climb doesn't bar me from expressing my opinion. Since the myriad of wise men have promptly dismissed my opinion because of whether I can climb a certain letter grade, I secede. I still think that climbing has changed for the worse. But since everyone else, in their infinite wisdom, seem to think the opposite, I guess you're right. If you're the sheep I believe you to be, you'll gladly let others think for you. Cheers
Saying a 5.7 climber understands the type of high end climbing Sasha does is like saying a wheelchair bound anorexic female understands the intricacies of what it takes to be an offensive lineman in NFL football. In case you didn't understand me, I said you lack the experience necessary to comprehend what was accomplished. So, as you admit, your opinion does not matter, your out of your league. Crying about it does not change the dynamics. You are like child discussing foreign politics.

eli poss wrote: whoa there, don't start generalizing people by what they climb. i may be the exception, but i know people who climb mainly trad and others who climb mainly sport, and the sport climbers are the ones that are flamboyant and cocky. the trad climbers just watch the sport climbers and giggle. i'm not saying all sport climbers are cocky douches but, in my limited experience, they tend to be. and yes i know that what i just said was highly hypocritical. but it's okay because i crush 5.7 on plastic
You actually proved the point:

It's the whiny and churlish giggling that makes some trads into tards; it's quite similar to what 16 year old girls do with their limited behavioral experience. Giggling is a sign of compensating for unsure and weak personalities. Most of us began trad climbing and then grew up, so might you.
CCChanceR Ronemus · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 130

I'm glad she has such a "deep friendship" with her belayer, because that feeling isn't reciprocated by many of the people in the climbing community she's been a real diva to! Next time you think you can be a mixed climbed in 6 days, at least show some respect to those who put the requisite decades in to master and establish the sport, Sasha.

She is cute though! And sport climbing is rad! It's fine it gets attention, most of the badass alpinists probably couldn't give a shit if they get featured in the Huffington post.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

Chance,

I am going to have to respectfully disagree with you. I thought it was great seeing Sasha taking on ice & mixed climbing this Winter. Seemed like she was having a great time and was merely doing it for fun and to experience something different. In the Ouray mixed comp I found it interesting that she did not fall off but merely timed out, would have like to have seen how high she would have made it if there was no time limit, she was clearly not pumped, just on the slow side figuring it out as she on route.
It was nice to see one the top sport climbers in the world getting out of her comfort zone to try something new. Looks like she was even playing around on Moonlight Buttress this spring. With her strength, skill and mental toughness I don't think their is much she can't do, all she needs is a little time to learn some new skills and techniques and she can do anything in climbing.

Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35
Highlander wrote:Chance, I am going to have to respectfully disagree with you. I thought it was great seeing Sasha taking on ice & mixed climbing this Winter. Seemed like she was having a great time and was merely doing it for fun and to experience something different. In the Ouray mixed comp I found it interesting that she did not fall off but merely timed out, would have like to have seen how high she would have made it if there was no time limit, she was clearly not pumped, just on the slow side figuring it out as she on route. It was nice to see one the top sport climbers in the world getting out of her comfort zone to try something new. Looks like she was even playing around on Moonlight Buttress this spring. With her strength, skill and mental toughness I don't think their is much she can't do, all she needs is a little time to learn some new skills and techniques and she can do anything in climbing.
Can't agree more with Highlander. Isn't that part of the fun about climbing? Being able to share the awesome lines to climbers that can appreciate and push themselves hard to succeed.

IMHO, there are always two extrema of the climbing community, one where all the people good at the area they climb, but they reluctant to open up and let other people to try it and share the experience (I hate to use the word stubborn, but that may be a better word for that). Then there is another extremum where people that are good at climbing one style and think they will jump on anything and don't give much consideration how hard people work in these areas to establish and push the sport.

For the right mind, I am sure majority of the climbers will just love what they are doing, pushing themselves physically and mentally regardless of what other people say or think. As they are pursuing such a lifestyle (as the Japanese term 'Do' in Kendo), they come to appreciate the problems, the people before them, and that makes them humbler and willing to push themselves harder.

Bottom line, given that the non-climing community has already misunderstood we climbers, thinking we are bunch of reckless punks or adrenaline junkies. It may not be wise for us to pick on or talk down each other. Those are my 2 cents.
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Some like the softer woman. It's really their most natural state. Some of us desire the more athletic body type. Some dudes like short round thick chicks. Some guys are rappers. ;)

CCChanceR Ronemus · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 130

Highlander and Bang, you're probably right. Some people told me she was quite the diva in town this winter, but I didn't personally experience that, and I guess I'm just spreading their jaded opinions then.

Sasha is obviously a great climber and I would love to see mixed getting some new talent. Besides I guess I'm not much different in the trying to learn mixed really fast regard. I just thought that wasn't cool if she was disrespecting Dawn and Vince and other local badasses, but she probably wasn't.

It was super cool getting to see her on the comp route! Definitely took a different approach than most. I like that she's proving climbers who learned in the gym can hold their own, sorry I talked shit!

Simon W · · Nowhere Land · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

R. Kelley said it best -

"Haters gonna hate, lovers gonna love, I don't even want none of the above...."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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