Not-to-be-missed trad routes on Utah/Arizona roadtrip?

Hey all, my GF and I are heading out on a roadtrip around Utah and Northern Arizona. We have a rough route planned: I70 to Moab, up to Little Cottonwood Canyon, down to Zion (mostly for the scenery), then The Grand Canyon. After that we're heading back through Southern Colorado and will be stopping at Shelf Road for some sport, and visiting the wolf refuge we met at.

We're both fairly new climbers. She has just over a year, I have just under. We're both currently comfortable trad leading 5.8s (though capable of climbing a little harder). Neither of us is comfortable with aiding, though I can do it in a pinch if needed. So that said, are there any must-do multipitch routes around any of those areas at or around 5.8 you think we should hit? We have a few we'd like to do, but suggestions would be appreciated over just thumbing a guidebook.

When are you traveling? What months?

doligo wrote:When are you traveling? What months?

The where is in my first post, we've not narrowed down more than that. The when is this month.

personal favorites:

Stoert's Ridge and Outside Corner in Big Cottonwood.
Eleventh Hour on Sundial Peak (BCC)
Lowe Route on Lone Peak
Pentapitch, Beckey's Wall, and Perhaps in Little Cottonwood.

Just be aware that LCC 5.8 is insecure and intimidating until you get used to it. well, even after you're used to it.

Thanks ton. So LCC is just a little on the harder side for the grade, or is the pro bad?

Mathias wrote:Thanks ton. So LCC is just a little on the harder side for the grade, or is the pro bad?

The gear is good on all of those routes. It's more that LCC granite is just a little bit slicker, and the cracks are a little bit more flared than they appear just from looking at them.

I wouldn't say that the grading is any harder than any other old school moderates.

mountainproject.com/v/elysi…

On your way back from Grand Canyon, stop by the Winslow Wall. I don't think there are many 5.8 and under, but there is a well protected 5.9 totally worth plus there is some easy sport. It's a total Girlfriend destination - you can chase shade and if you're too hot, go swimming right at the base of the climbs. Heck, there is even a Girlfriend Route - a fun easy sport climb. I thought the way sun reflections bounced off the water on the canyon walls was the prettiest thing I've seen climbing. Totally worth a stop for a day. There is some easy multi-pitch trad in Ouray - also another girlfriend-friendly destination, great camping and hot springs to soak after. PM me for more info.

Pro is good in LCC but the climbing tends to be a bit funky. Lots of friction.
Pro in BCC is a bit more challenging (quartzite vs granite) but you get to use actual holds.

Ton's suggestions are good for BCC, I'd add Outside Corner for a very exposed 8+. The Sundial has a long approach and the climbing isn't all that spectacular but it's worth the trip for the setting only.
Mule Hollow Wall has some secluded moderates to check out if the crowds get to you.
For LCC, I'd throw in Schoolroom, Crescrent Crack (link with Final Link if you can handle 5.9 friction), Perhaps, Tingey's Terror to Torture to Axis of Evil (long), Bushwhack to the Hook, and maybe Standard Thumb if yo don't mind wide stuff and getting way off the deck.
Brings tons of runners and doubles up to .75 and start on stuff you'd normally consider too easy.

ton, thanks for the heads up. There's on Kor route up there I wanted to get on which is really just an excuse to head that direction. I can't remember the name, a 5.8R (the R seems to be for the slab at the top). We'll jump on a .6 or .7 first to check out the rock.

Scott, that looks like a great one for us!

Doligo, we'll look at those for sure. Tbh, I think she's actually more of a climber than I am. She just wants to get on the rock! She'll walk up to a crag, look at the feature and decide "That looks doable, let's do that." without even looking at a guidebook. The swimming sounds like a good idea though.

ton wrote:personal favorites: Stoert's Ridge and Outside Corner in Big Cottonwood. Eleventh Hour on Sundial Peak (BCC) Lowe Route on Lone Peak Pentapitch, Beckey's Wall, and Perhaps in Little Cottonwood. Just be aware that LCC 5.8 is insecure and intimidating until you get used to it. well, even after you're used to it.

Add Crescent Crack and the Coffin

IF its over 70 outside - LCC gets really warm - gotta play the sun.

In St George I bet you'd love the Prophecy Wall (shady in the am)

+1 for Eleventh Hour. Good (not great) 5.8 climbing, but the setting is spectacular.

If it melts out in time, Lowe Route. Possibly the best 5.8 in the state.

North Chimney is another good one. Start early or on a weekday.

All the recommendations for the Wasatch are top picks, I would echo that most of the routes in LCC mentioned are sunny and will bake on a clear day in May, start early! Pentapitch is on the south side of the canyon, will be shady in the morning, and is some excellent, Yosemite-esque fine grained granite to enjoy. Definitely do Outside Corner in BCC! Beckey's Wall (as in Fred Beckey) and Satan's corner are must do. The Kor route you are looking for is the Hook, and it's not R. It starts 150 feet or so up the Schoolroom wall, so you will unfortunately have to climb the classic Bushwack crack to get there. Best wishes for an awesome road trip.

Yes, The Hook. The route guide on here said it was R, I believe. But that was just for the slab at the top and the explanation really didn't sound bad. But I suppose R to one person is nothing yo someone else.

She likes the look of Lowe Route.... but not the approach I think. :D

North Chimney was on the very short list because Kor-Ingalls requires more testicular (or ovarian) fortitude than we have at our disposal. North Chimney looks great though.

Hopefully she is compiling a list as I type this.

The approach to the LPC really does suck. But it is so good once you get there that it is worth it. Water won't be a problem this time of year (although snow might), so that cuts the weight you have to carry at least.

If you go up there, spend a day or two and climb a bunch of routes.

Boissal, regarding your comment on doubles, do you think we can get away with tricams? Only have a single set of cams right now, but we're both comfortable with tricams. Thanks for the suggestions too.

Mike, I think that approach is too much for us on this particular trip, though I'm sure we'll be back to do that route at some point. Looks too good not to.

Has anyone climbed the 5.8 on Mount Hayden in The Grand Canyon? We were looking at that. I'm guessing the approach to that one's not too pleasant either, but probably more manageable.

Do you know how to hand jam?

If the answer is yes...go to Moab/IC/Zion and climb their "low hanging fruit" forget LCC. "Easy routes" there include Blue Sun, Chocolate Corner, Twin Cracks, "Unnamed 5.8 Power Wall" Cherry Crack Cave Route Etc.

LCC can be bold and not exactly "friendly", both the Lowe Route, The coffin and several others mentioned have easy moves but at times you're in don't fall, lets do a slab move, exposed terrain particularly the start of the coffin.

"Comfortable Leading"? Are you comfortable falling on nuts, weird cam placements, etc.

None of these questions are ill-natured, I'm just making sure you're not going to get over your head with the above suggestions...like I did when I started leading trad here several years ago.

But then again, I'm still standing.

Travis, good questions. I'm okay with hand and fist jams (not great, but okay). I've mostly used jams for short sections of pitches though. She's had less experience with jams and is probably not quite so confident about them.

I'm not too comfortable falling at all, though I have a couple times. She's more comfortable with it than me. I'm not comfortable falling on cams in general, but less uncomfortable on passive pro. I know if I place the gear correctly it'll do it's job, and I feel confident in my placements (assuming good rock), I just don't like falling. At all. I climb anyway.

Thanks for the answer, for a budding leader (and I'm not trying to rain on everyone elses parades) Pentapitch, Beckeys Wall, and Perhaps all have mandatory "no gear terrain" particular the start of Beckey's and end of the 1st and 5th pitch of Pentapitch. For LCC "can place wherever you want" I'd suggest Squeeze My Lemon, Crescent Crack, and Bushwhack Crack to start.

Also I'd be glad to take you guys out if you're looking for a half-day wknd "guide" when you do come through.