"It's gone free at ___."
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How is the info about an aid climb lost just because one person was able to free it? Why does everyone eat this stuff up? "There's no aid climbs there anymore, they've all gone free." And somehow all the info about countless wonderful climbs is lost. What about the first asentionist style? "Now" it's a free climb, it wasn't before. I don't know man, I don't like it. |
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Stop living in the past. |
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old book
The info is still all out there, just stop being lazy and stop admitting to being to lazy to look at a book on the internet. Do you really expect MP to have 50yr old climbing beta on it? when no one climbs the routes in that style any more? Also the style and gear listed for 60 yr aid climbs is generally frowned upon these days, and you might even get your ass kicked for hammering in some areas, especially on routes that can be sent clean nowdays. not to mention your really gonna piss someone off by take 1154 hours to nail and aid a route that could be climbed free at 5.9 in 5 hours. |
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Tronald Dump wrote: not to mention your really gonna piss someone off by take 1154 hours to nail and aid a route that could be climbed free at 5.9 in 5 hours.+!1 +1! +1 YES |
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My two cents... |
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Actually, many guidebooks will have a first ascent listing that looks like: |
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You can aid anything you'd like. |
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You'll want to use this. |
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Dustin B wrote: starting "mountain project classic"supertopo? |
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Patrick Kehoe wrote:How is the info about an aid climb lost just because ONE person was able to free it?It usually isn't. Like others have said the old guidebooks are out there, but even the new ones usually include both aid and free ratings until the climb is overwhelmingly done as a free route. |
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My two cents-- |
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Patrick Kehoe wrote:How is the info about an aid climb lost just because one person was able to free it? Why does everyone eat this stuff up? "There's no aid climbs there anymore, they've all gone free." And somehow all the info about countless wonderful climbs is lost. What about the first asentionist style? "Now" it's a free climb, it wasn't before. I don't know man, I don't like it.It's not when just one person frees it. It's when a route is commonly done free that it is no longer an aid climb. |
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It's called evolution!, the standard for free climbing has increased to point where the average 9-5 desk jockey weekend warrior type can easily attain the ability to climb 5.12-5.14. Routes that used to be aided can now be climbed free by "average" climbers. The NF of Rostrum and Astroman use to be aid climbs now any one can walk up and free those routes in an afternoon. Moonlight Buttress & Rainbow Wall are other examples of routes that use to be popular amongst aid climbers, now can be free climbed by "average" climbers. It's evolution of the sport, and just happens all the routes I have listed have been free soloed, another evolution. |
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According to MP's statistics the average female climbs 10a and males 10b. |
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Eric LaRoche wrote:According to MP's statistics the average female climbs 10a and males 10b.Not in my neighborhood. |
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Highlander wrote: the average 9-5 desk jockey weekend warrior type can easily attain the ability to climb 5.12-5.14.I need to get a 9-5 desk jockey job |
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Highlander wrote:It's called evolution!, the standard for free climbing has increased to point where the average 9-5 desk jockey weekend warrior type can easily attain the ability to climb 5.12-5.14. Routes that used to be aided can now be climbed free by "average" climbers. The NF of Rostrum and Astroman use to be aid climbs now any one can walk up and free those routes in an afternoon. Moonlight Buttress & Rainbow Wall are other examples of routes that use to be popular amongst aid climbers, now can be free climbed by "average" climbers. It's evolution of the sport, and just happens all the routes I have listed have been free soloed, another evolution.Inigo Montoya |
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Just saying that today just about anyone is capable of climbing on the lower end of those grades if they really want to. |
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Especially if it's offwidth. |
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Reality check from outside the young hip spray fest mountain town bubble
let me fix this for you: |
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Greg Barnes wrote:Reality check from outside the young hip spray fest mountain town bubble let me fix this for you: It's called evolution!, the standard for free climbing has increased to point where the average 9-5 desk jockey weekend warrior type can easily attain the ability to climb 5.10 and dog their way to the point they can redpoint some low 5.11 super protected route. Routes that used to be aided can now be climbed free by "average" climbers (no surprise, lots of 5.9's used to be aided). The NF of Rostrum and Astroman use to be aid climbs now around 1% of dedicated 9-5 desk jockeys can walk up and free those routes in an afternoon. Moonlight Buttress & Rainbow Wall are other examples of routes that use to be popular amongst aid climbers, now can be free climbed by elite climbers. It's evolution of the sport, and just happens all the routes I have listed have been free soloed, a personal choice by a few and not something you should blab about.Greg, Where I live is neither young nor hip, you must be thinking of somewhere else. The majority of the local climbers around here are retirement age or even older and still get after it. BTW I consider myself a very average climber not an elitist. |