All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 2. S Buttress > Wonder Wall

The Last Unicorn

Name: The Last Unicorn
Rating: 3.6

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Wonder Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Beginner's Blessing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Centaur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Science Friction Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Treach Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Ed Webster, Jeff Phesant 1978
Page Views:	9,849 total · 48/month
Shared By:	Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Pitch 1a) Sky Streak start: From the two bolt anchor 25' off the Wonder Wall tree ledge, step left and climb a short, steep wall past two bolts, move up on easier ground to a ledge and a bolt. Traverse right to the first belay on The Last Unicorn. 5.10b.

Pitch 1b) Note: Rockfall may have altered the start of this pitch. The Sky Streak start is more commonly used. The original start: traverse down and right passing the latter two bolt anchor for almost a pitch and start a large, dying, spruce tree. Move left of the tree climbing on cool, angular holds past some pins to small, parallel corners and make a difficult move past a bolt (crux). A broken hold in the corner resulted in an upgrade to 5.10d in the new guidebook. Belay on a decent ledge at a two bolt anchor. 80' 5.10d.

Pitch 2) Make 5.9 moves up and left past two bolts to the base of a vertical, flake system, crank up the .10b crux past three bolts to an obvious overlap and undercling to a beautifully exposed belay. 100' 5.10b.

Pitch 3) Climb a striking and difficult, open corner past four bolts to a pin and make awesome layback moves to the top. 85' 5.10b.

Rappel from a bolt station 30' to your left to another two-bolt anchor on Science Friction Wall, two sixty-meter raps will get your down.

Location

From the base of the approach for Inferno, climb up the 4th class ledge system traversing right, pass the two bolt anchor for Lost Souls and make your way across the wonder wall tree ledge. At its far, right-hand side, traverse right 25 feet for the Sky Streak start, Continue traversing right @ 5.4 to the spruce tree and the original start.